It has been THE classic ornamental plant in the pre-Christmas decorated room for decades: the poinsettia. Its star-shaped inflorescence dwarfs many other houseplants in the winter months. To ensure that it is preserved for as long as possible, there are this and that to consider.
Origin
The poinsettia, botanically Euphorbia pulcherrima, and in German also poinsettia (after a US ambassador to Mexico), called the Christmas or Advent star, is a plant from the spurge family. Its Latin name, which distinguishes it as the 'most beautiful spurge plant', was given to it by the botanist Carl Ludwig Willdenow, who was obviously completely enthralled by the plant's charm. The poinsettia came to Europe in the luggage of the famous Alexander von Humboldt when he returned from his trip to America in 1804.
The Christmas star comes from the American continent. Its distribution area is primarily the tropical and subtropical central and southern parts: its original habitats are primarily in Mexico, on the Caribbean Islands, in Venezuela and Brazil to Argentina. The climatic conditions to which it is adapted are not that easy to replicate in our room - but in the 1950s, breeders managed to largely adapt the requirements of the poinsettia to our local living room climate.
However, the poinsettia is still a little sensitive to the air environment.
Origin at a glance:
- Poinsettia comes from tropical to subtropical regions of Central and South America
- Introduced to Europe by Alexander von Humboldt
- Actually somewhat unfavorable conditions for the local room culture
- Adapted to the climate of indoor living spaces through breeding
- Still quite sensitive
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Growth
We cultivate poinsettias primarily as annual potted plants, simply because of their strong seasonality. Euphorbia pulcherrima is actually a perennial, evergreen shrub that, as laypeople would hardly expect, reaches an impressive height in its homeland. The spurge plant can actually grow up to 6 meters tall and, thanks to its woody trunk, has an almost tree-like habit with a wide, sprawling crown.
Originally, the poinsettia only branches moderately - the significantly more densely branched, compact and room-friendly growth of up to 60 cm high of the potted plants available in this country is achieved by chemical inhibitors. In specialist shops there are also specimens grown into standard trees.
Growth characteristics in keywords:
- Natural growth habit: perennial, evergreen shrub
- Tree-like habit due to woody trunk
- In its native land up to 6 m high with a spreading, moderately branched crown
- Local potted plants trained to small, compact growth with inhibitors
- Then only about 60 cm high
- Also available as a standard tree
leaves
All leaves of the poinsettia have the typical ovoid to lanceolate shape that tapers to a point, which in the inflorescence with its rosette-shaped arrangement creates the association with a star. What we perceive as a star structure is actually part of the foliage of the poinsettia - because they are colored bracts, so-called bracts, which serve to attract pollinator insects. The bracts are naturally red, but among the cultivated forms available here, variants in other colors are also available. Sometimes the bracts are also sprayed with (sometimes glittery Christmas) paint.
The leaves in the lower part of the plant are arranged alternately and sit on 2 to 8 cm long stems. Its surface is colored dark green, the underside is slightly lighter.
Leaf properties in brief:
- Elongated, egg-shaped shape with a tapered end
- Coloured bracts arranged in a rosette shape around the flowers create a star-like inflorescence
- Bracts usually red, but other color varieties also available
- Leaves dark green
Bloom
What is often mistaken for the flower is just for show. The unisexual flowers located within the bract rosettes are, as is often the case with bract inflorescences, rather inconspicuous: They consist of thick, lip-shaped nectar glands and, depending on the sex, an ovary and a style or a single stamen. The nectar glands are arranged singly or in pairs. Overall, the flowers appear in a leaf-green to yellowish color
Flower properties in brief:
- Actual flowers within the magnificent bract rosette are rather inconspicuous
- Greenish to yellowish color
- Unisexual with nodular nectar glands and a single ovary, style or stamen
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Flowering time
The poinsettia doesn't get its name by chance. Not only does the Christmas-like, red star shape of its inflorescences fit wonderfully into our Advent culture, but its flowering time naturally also falls during the Christmas season. Generally it is scheduled from October to January. However, how well the flowers last depends very much on the environmental conditions, both in the shop and at home: if the plant has already been treated appropriately in the sales room and the flowers were still unopened at the time of purchase, you can expect a much longer one Calculate flowering time.
At home, you should also keep the poinsettia at just under 20°C if possible; in warmer, but also colder and draughty air, the flowers will die more quickly.
To remember:
- Flowering time generally between October and January
- Blossoms are more stable if they were treated appropriately in the store and the flowers were still unopened
- At home, the temperature should be as constant as possible, just below 20°C, which is conducive to long flowering
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Which location is suitable?
The poinsettia, like so many houseplants that come from tropical areas, likes light but protected from direct sunlight. A bright window seat or a location in the winter garden, slightly shaded by neighboring plants or an awning, is ideal. Poinsettias are quite sensitive to drafts.
The ambient temperature should generally be between 18 and 20°C. In winter, it is important to adhere to this temperature window as closely as possible if you value long-lasting flowering. In summer you can also put a poinsettia outside, of course also protected from direct sun.
Location conditions at a glance:
- Bright but protected from direct sun
- If possible, no drafts
- Ambient temperature between 18 and 20°C
- Can also be taken out in summer
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What soil does the plant need?
The substrate for a poinsettia should not be too dense and rich in humus, as its roots are very sensitive to waterlogging. His nutrient requirements are also limited. You can either place it in a universal potting soil loosened with clay granules or, even better, in cactus soil.read more
Repotting
Especially if you buy a poinsettia in shops that are not very specialized, you should immediately transplant it into your own soil mixture, as the substrates are often very poor quality. It's best to do this immediately after purchase or at the latest after the first flowering.
Otherwise, it is recommended to put a poinsettia in a new pot every spring. But make sure that the pot is not too big. By limiting the space of the root ball, you encourage the plant to produce fewer leaves in favor of more lush flowers. You can also just replace the soil and use the same potread more
Watering the poinsettia
When it comes to watering, the poinsettia demands your full attention. It reacts very sensitively to both waterlogging and dryness and quickly shows this through wilting shoots. However, waterlogging is the greater evil - so water sparingly rather than too much. We recommend a weekly immersion bath and then allowing it to dry. Of course, good humidity is also good for the tropical plant.
In order to induce lush flowering in the next flowering season, it is advisable not to water the poinsettia at all for about 4 weeks in early spring after the last flowering and then water it a little more abundantly.
To remember:
- Waterlogging is essential, but also avoid prolonged dryness
- Cheap: weekly immersion bath, then let it dry
- High humidity
- For beautiful flowers in the coming season: keep dry for 4 weeks in early spring, then water more
Fertilize your poinsettia properly
To keep your poinsettia in good shape, you can feed it with a universal fertilizer every week during the bright half of the year. During the winter flowering phase, reduce fertilizer application to once every 2 weeks. You can also use fertilizer sticks. In the first year after purchase, however, you should avoid adding additional nutrients.read more
Cut the poinsettia correctly
If you don't want to have your poinsettia indoors for just one season, you should cut it back heavily in the winter after it has bloomed to ensure it blooms beautifully every year. This will help you gather strength over the summer and you can expect beautiful, star-shaped bracts again at Christmas time. To do this, cut out all shoots that are rotten, too long and dried out. Use sharp scissors to avoid bruising non-woody shoots. You should also wear gloves because of the plant's milky sap, which irritates the skin.read more
Bonsai
The artistic shaping of a poinsettia is possible, but only somewhat limited. On the one hand, you need a specimen that is several years old and sufficiently woody at the bottom. On the other hand, a poinsettia can only be kept small and compact by cutting; shaping is not really possible. Wiring is also taboo for its sensitive shoots. Make the cut after flowering. Additionally, you can limit its growth by carefully pruning the roots.read more
Frost
The tropical poinsettias are of course not frost hardy. In general, you should protect them from temperatures below 10°C. As soon as this limit is reached outdoors, you must bring a poinsettia that has been cultivated outside over the summer into the house at the latest.read more
Wintering
In view of its flowering time in winter, the poinsettia is more likely to be referred to as over-summering than over-wintering when it comes to perennial rather than seasonal culture. To get a poinsettia to bloom every year during Advent, you should start with pruning and drying it out for 4 weeks in the spring. Then water it more and continue to care for it with weekly fertilizer and a bright location at around 20°C (even outside).read more
Balcony
If you have a protected, bright balcony, you can put your poinsettia there over the summer months. But make sure that it doesn't get any direct sun or strong wind.read more
Planting out
Planting a poinsettia is generally possible in summer. Of course, the same location requirements apply here as for pot culture: plenty of brightness without direct sunlight, a permeable substrate and careful watering care. At the latest when the temperatures fall below 10°C in autumn, the poinsettia must be dug up and put back in a pot so that it can be brought into the house.read more
Propagate poinsettias
The best way to propagate a poinsettia is using the cuttings method. It is best to use the shoots that have been cut off during the annual pruning in early spring. Spring is the best time for growing, when the light available increases.
The cuttings should be around 7 to 10 cm long. Wait until the emerging milky juice has drained away or stop the flow by briefly immersing the interface in water. Then put the cutting in a planter with sandy potting soil and place it in a bright, at least 22 °C warm place. You can grow the cuttings under foil to create an evenly moist, warm microclimate. A mini greenhouse is of course even better.read more
Cuttings
See 'Propagate' section.read more
offshoot
See 'Propagate' section.read more
Diseases
A tricky thing with the poinsettia is and remains waterlogging. It can not only lead to root rot, but also to so-called gray mold. You can recognize this fungus by the stems, leaves and flowers rotting, turning brownish and then covered with a grayish coating. Cut out all diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible and put the poinsettia in a dry place for a while. If the infestation is intense, you can also use a fungicide.read more
Pests
Like all houseplants that like high humidity, heating air that is too dry can also attract the spider mites or mealybugs that are all too familiar to hobby gardeners.
Spider mites
You can easily recognize these parasites by the fine webs that they form around the leaf axils. The best way to deal with spider mites is with water: First, rinse them mechanically from the plant with a slightly stronger jet of water and then wrap them in a film that you tie together at the bottom. In this air-poor, humid climate, the mites die within a week.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs also reveal themselves through their own secretion, which appears in the form of woolly balls on the leaves. You should also first decimate the parasites mechanically by carefully wiping the leaves with a wet cloth. Then apply a spray treatment consisting of a water-spirit-curd soap mixture (proportion 1l – 15ml – 15ml).
Is poinsettia poisonous?
As a spurge plant, the poinsettia, like all other members of the plant family, also contains a milky sap in the stems and leaves that is slightly irritating to the skin. Skin contact with the juice is usually harmless, but sensitive people can also experience unpleasant allergic reactions such as redness and severe itching. Hobby gardeners who are prone to allergies should therefore wear gloves when caring for the pruning.
Eating parts of the poinsettia plant can also lead to symptoms of poisoning in small children and small pets such as rabbits, hamsters or cats. However, these are usually only mild, as the majority of the toxic diterpenes have been bred out of the local cultured specimens.
If you swallow the poinsettia despite the fact that it doesn't necessarily taste good, this mainly results in digestive disorders such as diarrhea. In larger quantities it can be bloody and cardiac arrhythmias can occur.
Suitable measures include giving charcoal tablets to small children; if symptoms of poisoning are more severe, consult the emergency toxicology service. If you have animals, you should consult a veterinarian immediately.
To remember:
- Poinsettia milky sap slightly poisonous
- Causes skin irritation, if swallowed, gastrointestinal complaints and possibly cardiovascular disorders
- Keep away from small children and small pets in particular
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Tip
If you want more of the bloom, be careful when purchasing a poinsettia. On the one hand, you should avoid buying specimens from the supermarket, as they usually don't take the plant's environmental requirements into account at all. They are often too cold and drafty because they are placed in the entrance area during the season. Too much cold can cause the plant to wither quickly after being transported home.
It is therefore better to look for a beautiful, he althy and species-appropriate specimen in a reputable plant shop that is not too cold. You should also make sure that the flowers are not yet fully open and that they are not sprayed over with color. Transport the poinsettia home carefully and wrapped in paper and offer it a suitable location there.
Varieties
The natural color of the bract rosettes of the poinsettia is the classic red. And this color is still the most popular and best-selling - probably simply because it harmonizes so well with the rich dark green of the leaves and especially in this color combination looks classically Christmassy.
Nevertheless, nurseries have been trying to develop other color varieties for a long time, so that a whole range of other tones are now available. It has also become common practice to spray the specimens with plant-friendly paint, preferably covered with Christmas glitter. However, the latter in particular can stick together flowers that have already opened, so that the plants prepared in this way are only suitable for one-off seasonal cultivation.
Princettia
Poinsettias from the Princettia variety group are mainly available in specialist retailers. This variety name is a portmanteau of 'Princess' and 'Poinsettia', which refers to the particularly graceful beauty of these varieties. The Princettia poinsettias have slightly smaller and less knotty-looking flowers than their counterparts, which means that the decorative, colored bracts have a somewhat purer appearance. Their rosette-shaped arrangement is somewhat airier than other varieties.
Princetia poinsettias come in numerous color variations, ranging from light pink to rich scarlet pink, orange and snow white.
Patterned cultivars such as the red and white speckled 'White Glitter' also look very attractive and very Christmassy. Their white speckles look like snowflakes on the red background of the bracts. Individual bracts initially appear entirely white.
The light yellow flowering, relatively small and bushy growing variety 'Lemon Drop' sets a very happy, sunny accent in the winter room. It can create a positive, spring-thinking mood, especially after the turn of the year.
