Magnificent Vanda orchids: care and cultivation tips

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Magnificent Vanda orchids: care and cultivation tips
Magnificent Vanda orchids: care and cultivation tips
Anonim

Vanda orchids impress with their lush blooms. The exotic plants are not easy to cultivate. Anyone who deals with the special requirements of the epiphytic plant can enjoy the splendor of flowers for many years.

vanda
vanda

What conditions do Vanda orchids need for successful cultivation?

Vanda orchids are demanding, epiphytic plants that prefer high humidity, warm temperatures and partially shaded locations. They do not require any substrate and are cultivated hanging. Their flowering period extends from spring to autumn, with regular fertilization and watering being important.

Origin

Vanda describes a genus of orchids that contains around 80 species. The species' distribution area extends from India to the Philippines and the Indonesian islands. Centers of biodiversity are located in Thailand, Myanmar and Yunnan. Here the plants inhabit ever-moist or alternately moist forests. They prefer to occur in lowlands and conquer high altitudes in low mountain regions.

The range of the Vanda orchids is not only limited to the tropical and subtropical regions in Southeast Asia. Some species inhabit habitats in northeastern Australia. Many wild forms are cultivated. Cultivated forms are more suitable as ornamental plants.

Growth

Vanda species can grow into stately specimens that reach a height of up to 150 centimeters. The majority of ornamental plants reach heights of between 50 and 80 centimeters. They form a main shoot that does not branch. Numerous side shoots sprout from the main shoot.

Vanda orchids grow as epiphytes on trees to get more light in dense forests. Their roots are specialized to this way of life. They are used to anchor on branches and need air to survive. With the help of the long root system, the plants draw moisture from the air.

leaves

The fleshy, thickened leaves feel leathery. They are dark green in color and shiny. At their base they are folded in a V-shape along the midrib. The leaf blade is spread flat towards the tip. It has a narrow linear shape and ends in a recessed tip. The leaf blade merges into the base of the leaf. At this point the orchids develop a separating tissue.

Bloom

Shoots arise in the leaf axils on which large individual flowers develop. The wild forms are monochromatic, while hybrids develop multicolored petals with attractive markings and patterns. They exude an intense scent. The flowers follow a five-fold structure. The petals are free. They vary in shape and may appear twisted at their base so that their back faces forward. The petals are often wavy or curled at the edge.

Flowering time

Vanda orchids bloom from spring to fall. Their flowering period lasts two months, which can be repeated three times until autumn. There are varieties with tiny flowers and hybrids with strikingly large petals. They can bloom in white, yellow, orange, red, purple or blue.

Good to know:

  • Flowers only wither after several weeks
  • Vandeen are pollinated by carpenter bees
  • rich range of colors and sizes within the flowers

Usage

These ornamental plants beautify interiors and warm houses with their striking flowers and intense aroma. They thrive in heated greenhouses with high humidity. Under optimal conditions, Vandeen are suitable for outdoor cultivation during the summer months.

Is Vanda poisonous?

Vandeen are classified as poisonous. You should not cultivate the plants if there are children or pets in your household.

Which location is suitable?

As plants of tropical and subtropical regions, Vandeen prefer high humidity. The location should be partially shaded and bright and ensure warm temperatures. There are some species that tolerate normal room temperatures. Cultivation is very difficult on a north-facing windowsill.

What soil does the plant need?

You do not need any substrate to keep Vandeen as the plants are rooted on branches in their natural habitats. The orchids should be grown hanging in slatted baskets or pots with large recesses. Here the aerial roots can grow freely and hang down.

Sowing

Propagation via seeds is carried out by specialist companies as it is very time-consuming and time-consuming. The flowers must be pollinated by hand. This is done with a toothpick that is brushed over the male flower organs. The pollen is then placed on the stigma. Vandeen require about 20 months from fertilization to fruit ripening. When the fruit capsules have dried, they can be harvested.

Sterile conditions are necessary to germinate the seeds. All utensils must be free of fungal spores, bacteria and viruses. If the plant container or growing medium is contaminated, the germs often grow faster than the seeds and kill them. Not all fungal spores are harmful. Vandeen seeds rely on special fungal spores. Without this community, the seeds cannot survive. Attempts at breeding on collected pieces of bark have proven successful in many cases.

Cuttings

Propagation via head cuttings requires sensitivity, as if done incorrectly, both the mother plant and the cutting can be damaged. A he althy plant is divided into two plants in the middle of the shoot. The upper part should have two to three aerial roots formed so that the cutting can survive. The lower part also needs enough roots to survive. With good care, after a few months it will develop side shoots that will produce fresh leaves.

Place the head cutting in a pot lined with sphagnum moss that has enough holes. The moss can store and release moisture, making it easier for the plant to develop fresh roots.

Vanda in the pot

Vandeens are cultivated hanging so that the roots grow freely and are exposed to air circulation. A pot made of transparent glass with enough holes is ideal. There are special clay pots with window-like recesses. They have the advantage over glass in that the material stores water and releases it into the air. This way you can ensure high humidity. Cultivation in plastic pots is also possible. These are lined with Styrofoam for better water balance.

Balcony

Vanda orchids can be placed on the balcony during the summer months. The outdoor location promotes he althy root growth as long as there is sufficient humidity and warmth. The orchids react less sensitively to temperature fluctuations between day and night than related species. As soon as the temperature drops below ten degrees Celsius at night, the plant should be brought inside.

In the greenhouse

Vandeen come from tropical climes and like warm temperatures combined with high humidity. If these conditions cannot be guaranteed, cultivation in a greenhouse is recommended. The chance of flower formation is very high here.

Ideal conditions:

  • Temperature between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius
  • Humidity of 90 percent
  • flooded with light

Watering Vanda

The aerial roots are completely submerged in a water bath twice a week. The Vanda remains here for 30 minutes so that the roots can soak up. Make sure the water is room temperature. After the water bath, the water must be able to drain off easily. The aerial roots should be completely dry between dipping procedures. You can recognize dry roots by their grayish color. Roots soaked in water shimmer green. They will then become soft.

Vandeen prefer a humidity of at least 60 percent. To meet this requirement, you should mist the plant with water daily. Water must not accumulate in the leaf axils, otherwise it could lead to rot. During the dormant period in the winter months, mist the plant every few days.

Fertilize Vanda properly

Nutrients are provided to the Vandeen via the immersion bath. During the growth phase between March and October, the orchids enjoy fertilization every three weeks. It stimulates flower formation and promotes he althy growth. Use a special fertilizer for orchids and mix it with the immersion water.

Cut Vanda correctly

Regular pruning is not necessary with Vandeen. As soon as the flower shoots have completely dried out to the base, they are shortened to two centimeters. This measure promotes further flower development. Early cutting measures carry the risk of viruses and fungi settling at the interface.

How do I transplant correctly?

When the roots have completely taken over the container, you can treat your Vanda to a new pot. This is necessary every two to three years. During this measure, injured roots or rotten areas are removed. If you keep your orchid in a plastic container with Styrofoam, the material should be replaced several times a year.

Pests

Under incorrect location conditions, an infestation of scale insects, mealybugs or mealybugs can occasionally occur. Check humidity and temperature and adjust care accordingly. The pests can be controlled with an oil-based agent that is sprayed onto the leaves. Tea tree oil or neem oil are well suited for producing an ecological control agent

Yellow leaves

When temperatures drop below ten degrees Celsius, the leaves often develop yellow spots. These symptoms can also indicate too little fertilizer or conditions that are too dark. Check the location conditions and give the Vanda a better place. As a light-hungry plant, the orchid prefers a sheltered spot on a south-facing window.

Vanda doesn't bloom

Young plants grown via head cuttings require some time until the first flower shoots develop. Older specimens bloom more often. In order for the orchids to bloom, care must be right. If a Vanda doesn't bloom, it's often because the humidity is too low and the conditions are too dark.

Tip

If a flower shoot breaks off, you can place it in a vase filled with water. The flowers last there for several weeks.

Varieties

  • Vanda coerulea: Blooms from October to November in blue and purple hues. Between 20 and 150 centimeters high.
  • Vanda cristata: Yellowish-green flowers, brown-red striped above, fragrant. Flowering time between March and June. Up to 20 centimeters high.
  • Vanda denisoniana: White to greenish-white flowers with orange spots, fragrant.
  • Vanda pumila: Small species. Whitish-green flowers with brown markings. Up to 15 centimeters high.

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