Fuchsias originally come from the South American rainforests, where they grow in the Andes at altitudes of up to 3000 meters in the light shade of tall trees. The exotic plants with their eye-catching flowers have also been cultivated in Europe since the 19th century, thriving particularly in the humid but mild-winter regions of Great Britain and Ireland.
How can fuchsias overwinter successfully?
Fuchsias should be cut back in autumn and overwintered in a dark, frost-free basement at 5-14°C. However, hardy fuchsias require frost protection made from brushwood and leaves. From February you can prepare the plants for spring by making them warmer and brighter and starting to fertilize them.
Most fuchsias are not hardy
Here, however, fuchsias are not hardy and should therefore not overwinter outdoors. The best option is a frost-free winter in cold house conditions, although it doesn't necessarily have to be bright there. In principle, fuchsias can also overwinter in dark cellars, as long as it doesn't get cooler than around five degrees Celsius. However, temperatures between 10 and 14 °C are optimal. If the winter is dark, you should definitely cut the plant back beforehand; it will also shed all of its leaves. However, fuchsias sprout again very reliably in spring. If you want to overwinter a fuchsia trunk, either pack it well or move it to its frost-free winter quarters.
Overwintering hardy fuchsias
Winter-hardy fuchsias are often offered in stores, although these are not really frost-hardy specimens. Hardy fuchsias are only winter-hardy in mild regions; in areas with potentially harsh winters, these species and varieties should also be kept frost-free over the winter. We particularly recommend the old, winter-hardy varieties, some of which have proven themselves under our climatic conditions for over 100 years. Even hardy fuchsias should be protected from frost with brushwood and leaves.
Preparing fuchsias for overwintering
Fuchsias should be well prepared for overwintering.
- Do not fertilize fuchsias from the beginning / middle of September.
- At the same time, gradually reduce watering.
- Pruning is done before putting it away for winter quarters.
- Planted specimens are pruned before the first frost.
Tip
From February you finally start to gradually prepare the plants for spring. Gradually move the plants to warmer and brighter areas, but not in direct sun. Put the plants back outside as early as possible, but bring them back outside when there is a risk of late frost. Fertilization is only carried out again when fresh, new shoots appear.
