During the summer, riding grasses develop feather-like flower spikes that protrude from dense clumps of leaves. They provide colorful accents at different times of the year. The site conditions differ depending on the species. When it comes to care, all Calamagrostis species are the same.
What characterizes riding grass as an ornamental plant?
Ride grass (Calamagrostis) is a genus of sweet grasses with around 230 species that are characterized by dense to loose clumps, green or striped leaves and feather-like flower spikes in summer. They are easy to care for, frost hardy and are suitable as ornamental plants for beds, borders, wild gardens and as privacy screens.
Origin
Riding grasses represent a genus within the sweet grasses. A total of around 230 species belong to the genus, which has the scientific name Calamagrostis. An important native species is the terrestrial riding grass (Calamagrostis epigejos), which grows in forest areas. Within the genus there are numerous species that are used as ornamental plants. The bog riding grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora), which was created from a cross between Calamagrostis epigejos and Calamagrostis arundinacea, is widespread.
The species are native here:
- around 100 species come from South America
- 14 occur in Europe
- of which around nine species are in Central Europe
Growth
Riding grasses grow as perennial plants that form dense to loose clumps. The sweet grasses develop underground runners that do not creep far through the substrate. The above-ground stalks have several nodes. The species form unbranched stems or culms that branch at the lowest nodes.
Most riding grasses develop sterile side shoots within the lower leaf sheaths that do not develop flower spikes. They serve to rejuvenate and ensure that the grasses form dense clumps. In some species, these side shoots break through the leaf sheaths, creating a somewhat loose growth habit. Species for sunny locations usually develop a tightly upright habit. Many grasses that are suitable for partial shade grow in an arch shape.
leaves
Calamagrostis species develop leaf sheaths that are open to the base of the leaf. This feature is clearly visible in the sections between two nodes. The leaf sheaths surround the stem and overlap on the opposite side. They merge directly into the leaf blade, which appears flat and stretched out long. Fine ribs can be seen on their surface. Riding grasses develop dark to fresh green leaves. Many varieties impress with white striped leaf blades.
Bloom
In summer, riding grasses bear richly branched inflorescences, the individual flowers of which are in a dense panicle. Typical of these sweet grasses are long white hairs that protrude from the spikelets. The inflorescences are white, yellow or brown in color with red or purple nuances.
Fruit
After the flowering period, the flowers fall off as a whole. The inflorescence bears numerous small seeds that give the panicles a brownish color. They last until winter, so that riding grasses set accents in the garden even during the dreary season. At the same time, the seeds provide an important source of food for birds.
Usage
Riding grasses are popular ornamental plants in various garden designs. They give beds and borders structure without becoming dominant. Their decorative spikes are particularly effective in group plantings. Riding grasses can be planted solitary.
They harmonize with delphiniums, autumn asters or sunflowers and bring variety to plantings with other grasses. The sweet grasses can be planted as rose companions. When planted in rows, Calamagrostis species develop a natural privacy screen. Cut blossoms and fruit stalks provide perfect material for bouquets in the second half of the year.
This is where riding grasses come into their own:
- natural wild gardens
- Rose hedges
- Prairie Gardens
- Architect Gardens
Which location is suitable?
The different Calamagrostis species require different location conditions. The majority of the species prefer sunny locations, although some members of the genus grow in partially shaded conditions. A few varieties can be planted in light shade because the majority of grasses develop long stalks in search of light. These become unstable with age as the flower spikes pull down the stem.
What soil does the plant need?
Riding grasses thrive in well-drained and loose substrates with fresh conditions. They like a slightly humus-rich soil with a pH value in the neutral range. Many varieties tolerate a slight lime content.
Types for different soils:
- Swamp riding grass (Calamagrostis canescens): wet soils, boggy
- Redgrass (Calamagrostis epigejos): fresh conditions
- Mountain riding grass (Calamagrostis varia): dry locations, poor
The correct planting distance
Riding grasses are planted in spring so that they can grow in until winter. While the planting hole is being dug, you can place the root ball in a bucket of water. The hole should be twice the size of the plant ball. Individual grasses are planted at a distance of 80 centimeters from each other. You can cover the ground with stones so that irrigation water can drain off better. Insert the ornamental grass and fill the gaps with excavated soil. A little compost provides the plants with ideal growing conditions.
Propagate riding grass
Sterile varieties can be propagated by division in spring. Pierce the root ball with a spade and lift the partial plant out of the ground. It should have a few stalks so that the plant grows faster in the new location. After planting, watering is important. Water thoroughly so that gaps in the soil close and the roots come into contact with the substrate. In the following years, the young plants can be divided again when they have developed large clumps.
Sowing
The different varieties of Calamagrostis x acutiflora are sterile and cannot be propagated from seeds. Wild species develop numerous seeds after the flowering period. Cut off the panicles and place them on a cloth to catch the falling seeds. Riding grasses are cold germinators. Scatter the seeds into a freezer bag filled with sand and moisten the substrate. The bag will be stored in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for the next five to six weeks.
The grains are then sprinkled onto a peat-sand mixture and covered thinly with substrate. The cultivation pots are placed in a place with temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius, whereby the substrate must be constantly moist. Seedlings appear after three to four weeks.
Riding grass in a pot
Riding grasses are suitable for planting in containers. The pot should have a minimum volume of 20 liters. Use containers that have two to three drainage holes. Place pottery shards or pebbles on the bottom of the pot and plant the riding grass in a mixture of sand, compost and garden soil.
Choose a partially shaded place, as full sun causes the substrate to dry out more quickly. Place the pot on a plant roller. The fast-growing grass gains weight during the vegetation phase and can be moved better with the help of the support. At the same time, it serves as insulation against ground frost in winter.
Watering riding grass
All riding grasses prove to be frugal when it comes to water requirements. Adult specimens do not need additional watering. Young plants and freshly divided specimens require more water and should be watered regularly. Water potted plants regularly to prevent the root ball from drying out.
Fertilize riding grass properly
It is enough to provide the plants with compost at the beginning of the growing season. Riding grasses do not require any additional nutrients. Plants in pots are occasionally supplied with nutrients in the form of a liquid fertilizer. When repotting, you can enrich the fresh substrate with a little compost so that no further fertilization is necessary in the same year.
Cut riding grass correctly
Riding grasses stay tall over the winter. They provide a decorative aspect. Their hollow stems provide a sheltered place for insects to overwinter. Shortly before the fresh shoots in spring, the dead stalks are cut off close to the ground. Tie the clumps together into bunches that you can easily grasp and cut off with one cut. Remember to wear sturdy gardening gloves as the edges of the leaves are sharp. Dispose of the clippings in the compost. Alternatively, it can be chopped into small pieces and used as bedding.read more
How do I transplant correctly?
Riding grass clumps can be transplanted during spring. The grasses should no longer be moved in autumn as they do not have enough time to take root. With this measure, it is worth dividing the rootstock and rejuvenating the stock in this way. Freshly transplanted plants should be sufficiently fertilized and watered. In the first year you can repeat the fertilization two to three times.
hardy
Riding grasses prove to be completely frost hardy and can easily spend the winter in the bed. To protect the clump, you can tie the stalks together in bunches in autumn. This prevents too much water from accumulating inside the nest. In particularly harsh winter months, you can spread a thick layer of leaves on the substrate. Potted plants should be provided with winter protection so that the substrate does not freeze.
Fungal infestation
If the summer was too wet and warm, riding grasses are occasionally affected by leaf rust. A disease can be recognized by orange to brown spots and pustules on the underside of the leaves. If the fungus has spread significantly, it covers the entire leaf. The tissue can no longer be supplied and dies.
Cut off affected leaves and dispose of them with household waste. Garden tools should then be disinfected with alcohol (€8.00 on Amazon) so that the spores do not spread again during the next cutting measures. As a preventive measure, make sure that the clumps are not watered from above. Fungal spores can spread better in poorly ventilated stands.
Tip
Place large decorative balls between the clumps to achieve a particularly harmonious loosening up. This arrangement is perfect for designing front gardens. With small resources you can create a balanced oasis.
Varieties
- Waldenbuch: Bushy growth, forms dense clumps. Leaves striped white. Yellow-brown panicles between June and August. 50 bos 150 cm high.
- Overdam: Growing tightly upright. Yellow ears from June to August. Between 50 and 150 cm high.
- Karl Foerster: Structured clumps. Yellowish-red flowers from June to August, spike-shaped to panicle-shaped. 150 to 180 cm high.
- Avalanche: Bushy, upright growth. Leaves striped white, with violet nuances. Light brown panicles from June to August. Reaches heights between 50 and 130 centimeters.
