With up to 150 centimeters per year, the willow is one of the growth rockets in the garden. Regular cutting is therefore mandatory for the most beautiful species and varieties. Read this tutorial about when and how to properly cut ornamental willows, pollard willows and weeping willows.
When and how should you cut a willow?
Willows should be cut in February when they have no leaves and temperatures are frost-free. Ornamental willows require annual pruning, as do pollard willows, while weeping willows only need pruning every 6 to 8 years. Remove dead wood, weak shoots and cut back remaining branches.
Best time is in February
In the private garden, the monthFebruaryhas emerged as the ideal time forpruning willow trees For the gardener, the date scores with one good overview of the structure and arrangement of the shoots because they do not yet have any leaves at the end of winter. The trees themselves are in the transition from winter dormancy to the beginning of budding, so pruning measures have a gentle effect. Last but not least, a late winter pruning date complies with the protection of nature and the regulations in the Federal Nature Conservation Act.
Choose a day with cloudy skies and dry weather. The temperatures should be in the frost-free range. The lower tolerance limit has been proven to be - 5 degrees Celsius in practice.
Cut ornamental willow annually
Ornamental willows flirt with elegantly hanging branches or shine with their colorful foliage. Hobby gardeners have long since succumbed to the charm of catkin willow, harlequin willow or corkscrew willow. To ensure that the decorative willow varieties present their most beautiful side every year, pruning care plays a key role. How to cut an ornamental willow masterly:
- Thoroughly thin out the shrub or crown
- Cut off dead wood, weak, inward-facing or crossing shoots at the base
- Cut remaining branches back by either a third, half or two thirds
- Observe the cut on buds, 2-3 mm above one eye
- Excessively long shoots should ideally be diverted to a deeper, lateral young shoot
The good-natured tolerance of a willow to pruning allows a wide range of discretion. Trimming the crown of a harlequin willow by up to two thirds will promote the splendor of the colors. Ornamental willow 'Hakuro Nishiki' has the most beautiful green, white and pink leaves on this year's shoots. A corkscrew willow should at least be thinned out for growth that is flooded with light. Excessively long shoots are only cut back if they disrupt the overall appearance or become brittle as they get older.
Cut harlequin willow twice a year
A summer pruning brings new life to the colorful leaves of a harlequin willow. Over time, the fresh leaves turn green and lose their radiance. If the willow takes a short break in growth betweenend of June and mid-July, the best time is for amoderate pruning Shorten the branches of the crown or shrub In the area of this year's growth, cheerfully colorful leaves are once again sprouting.
Background
Moderate summer cutting is allowed
The main season for pruning willow trees is in winter. To protect our bird life, the Federal Nature Conservation Act allows radical tree pruning from October 1st to February 28th. The permit is valid on the condition that no wild animals overwinter in the hedge, bush or treetop. During the summer grace period from March 1st to September 30th, moderate pruning measures are permitted, provided they are limited to this year's shoot growth.
Cutting pollard willow – this is how it works
To ensure that a pollard willow maintains its authentic habit, you should trim the tree every year. By doing this, you encourage the willow to continually produce thin, pliable shoots without the crown becoming too heavy. Regular cutting also has the advantage that no large cuts occur. How to do it right:
- The best time is in winter from November to the end of February
- Cut off all branches that grow from the head
- Don't leave long stubs
- Remove shoots from the trunk all year round and promptly
To cut a pollard willow, you need two-handed pruning shears (€36.00 on Amazon) with telescopic arms and a folding saw. You can handle shoots up to a maximum of 3 centimeters in diameter with pruning shears, which ideally have a power-boosting ratchet gear and bypass mechanism. You can handle thicker branches with a Japanese saw.
Excursus
Wound closure products are taboo
Cutting old willow trees can leave larger wounds. Do not seal the wound areaswith tree wax Scientists and tree surgeons have proven that an airtight seal has a number of disadvantages. Among other things, the valuable tissue is prevented from overflowing the wound. It is better to smooth cuts with a clean, sharp knife. If temperatures below freezing point are still to be feared, apply a thin coat of tree wax to the outer edges of the wound to protect the cambium from frost damage.
Weeping willow rarely cut
Weeping willows are characterized by growth with picturesque, drooping shoots. Some of the branches grow upright, but rarely far beyond the grafting point. Over the years, an impressive, expansive crown develops. A weeping willow naturally develops its magnificent appearance. In contrast to their diverse counterparts, a cut is rarely on the care plan. Too dense growth with bald shoots is the most common reason for the following cut:
- Cut weeping willow every 6 to 8 years
- The best time is between November and February when the weather is mild and dry
- At the beginning, thin out dead, bare branches on Astring
- Cut heavily drooping shoots back to a flat side shoot
- Avoid large cuts larger than 3 cm in diameter
The figure below illustrates the cut as a combination of shape and thinning cut. It is important to note that you do not cut into the finishing area. This is located in the transition from the trunk to the hanging crown. The shapely, natural growth is preserved if you don't simply cut off branches that are too long or have too many branches, but direct them to a young side shoot.
Think out a weeping willow every 6 to 8 years. Take this opportunity to slim down massively branched branches by making a derivation cut.
Frequently asked questions
How do I prune a three-year-old corkscrew willow so that it grows as a dense shrub with a privacy screen?
Cut the existing shrub back to about 60 centimeters above the ground at the beginning of late winter. The corkscrew willow then sprouts vigorously. If the new shoots have reached a length of 25 centimeters in summer, prune them by 5 centimeters. At the end of the following winter, prune the previous year's growth by 5 to 10 centimeters. Continue like this until the corkscrew willow has reached the desired height.
This spring we planted a pussy willow that produced pretty flowers. Now in June, small shoots have formed on the trunk and directly from the ground. What to do? Can I still cut the ornamental willow now?
If shoots grow on standard willow trees below the crown, they are wildlings. These must be cut cleanly at the trunk. You tear off wild shoots from the ground with a courageous tug. At the end of June, all pastures briefly stop growing. During this phase, around mid-July, light pruning is possible as long as it is done in overcast and not too hot weather and is limited to this year's growth.
Which willow species are suitable for cultivation as pollard willow?
Traditionally, the basket willow (Salix viminalis) is grown as pollard willow. The original goal of this special form of education was to harvest long rods for basket weaving. Therefore, osier is also known as wicker and hemp willow. Also possible are white willow (Salix alba) and purple willow (Salix purpurea).
Can I use pasture clippings for propagation?
The striking vigor of a willow makes propagation with cuttings a successful pleasure. You can use the cuttings for this purpose if they are semi-lignified shoots about finger-thick and 20 to 30 cm long. Insert a shoot two-thirds into the ground so that only a few eyes poke out. In a partially shaded, protected location, please ensure that the soil is constantly slightly moist so that rooting progresses quickly.
Our weeping willow is 2 years old and 5 meters high. The tree has pickled well. However, side shoots grow in clumps in the lower trunk area. What to do?
You can and should remove the shoots. These are wildlings who strive to overgrow the beautiful noble cascade crown. Furthermore, the uninvited shoots deprive the tree of valuable nutrients. Cut each wildling just before the trunk bark. You don't need to deal with the interfaces any further because they close themselves.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
Cutting in frost has just as much of an impact on a pasture as completely foregoing pruning care. Although Salix species forgive most cutting errors in a good-natured manner and correct them on their own, you should be familiar with the most fatal mistakes. The following table lists the three most common mistakes with scissors and saws and provides tips for prevention:
| Cutting errors | malicious image | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| cut in frost | frozen back branches up to total failure | do not cut in frost below - 5 degrees Celsius |
| never cut | dense bushes of old branches | Ornamental willow and pollard willow annually, weeping willow cut every 6-8 years |
| cut into the finishing point | Crown breaks or dies | do not cut into the finishing area at the base of the crown |
Tip
Transplanting a pasture is closely linked to pruning. Every change of location means the loss of root mass. The resulting imbalance between underground and above-ground growth pushes every tree to its limits. By shortening all shoots by a third or half, you restore balance. Incidentally, this premise does not apply to willows in pots that are repotted.