Bush trees are characterized by low and bushy growth. They are therefore ideal for gardens with a smaller space. Special cutting techniques are necessary to ensure that the trees do not lose their shape.
How do you prune bush trees correctly?
When cutting bush trees, training pruning is carried out in the first 3 years after planting to form the basic structure. Annual maintenance cuts are then carried out to thin out the crown. Rejuvenation cuts are necessary if necessary to bring the tree back into shape.
Time
Bushy growing fruit trees require pruning at the right time so that they grow he althily and bear abundantly. Pruning during the winter months can be difficult due to frost damage. Early intervention favors the development of numerous shoots. The later you cut, the lower the growth. Summer pruning is therefore recommended for trees that naturally grow strongly.
For orientation:
- Training pruning: recommended for pome fruit after winter and shortly before flowering
- Conservation pruning: Additional measure in summer to thin out the crown
- Rejuvenation pruning: on almost all fruit trees in spring, on plums and plums in summer
Cutting measures
Use the plant cutting to create the basis for a crown. Since a different growth habit is desired for bush trees, this training method differs from the procedure for other fruit trees. Regular cuts are necessary, otherwise the shrub will constantly put energy into the formation of a main shoot. With maintenance pruning you ensure a balanced relationship between growth and fruit formation.
Tip
For bush trees, the distance from the ground to the lowest leading branches is a maximum of 50 centimeters. If the distances are greater, they are half or standard trunks.
Educational Cut
Immediately after planting, cut the main shoot to a height of 75 centimeters so that the bush tree is encouraged to form side shoots. Remove all branches except for three strong side shoots. The remaining branches are shortened by a third. Spindle bushes are an exception because the central shoot remains standing.
Next spring, grab the scissors again (€39.00 on Amazon) and remove all the shoots that grow in the crown. Shorten the scaffold branches by half their length. The remaining branches may be reduced to three to four eyes. Repeat these steps one last time in the third year, because then the basic framework is fully formed.
Conservation cut
First thin out the crown and remove any shoots that grow inwards. Strong competition shoots with the framework are completely removed. Transfer old fruit wood to a branch further in that is at least two years old and has flower buds. This should be directed outwards and grow diagonally upwards. Flat-growing young shoots with fruit set may be left standing.
Rejuvenation cut
If the tree has lost its shape or is no longer supporting well, a rejuvenating cut is necessary. In this move, remove any fruit branches that are overhanging, diseased or outdated. At the end, the crown should be generously illuminated so that enough light comes in. Once this procedure is completed, you will return to the maintenance cut in the following years.