With its small, spoon-like flowers, the single leaf is often confused with the usually red-flowering flamingo flower (“Anthurium”), but they are two different species. However, both of them are easy-to-care for houseplants that are very popular in German living rooms. Spathiphyllum, the botanical name of the single leaf, has many other names: it is also available commercially as leaf flag, peace lily or scabbard leaf.
What are the care requirements for the one-sheet?
Single leaf (Spathiphyllum) is a popular houseplant that thrives in bright, partially shaded places without direct sunlight. It requires consistent moisture, high humidity and regular fertilizer. Yellow or brown leaves may indicate care errors or pests that can be remedied with correct care practices.
Origin and distribution
Spathiphyllum is not a single species, but a genus of plants with around 50 different species within the Araceae family. Most of these single-leaf varieties are native to the tropical regions of South America, with many originating from Colombia and have not yet been scientifically described. In its natural environment, the single leaf thrives in the shade of large jungle trees.
Usage
We use various of the approximately 50 types of leaf as ornamental orHouseplants are cultivated, with the white-flowering Spathiphyllum floribundum and Spathiphyllum patinii as well as the species Spathiphyllum wallisii with the rapidly greening petals being particularly important. There are also a number of special hybrids. The plant, which comes from tropical regions, is not suitable for keeping in the garden, but can be placed in a shady spot on the balcony or terrace in the warm summer months.
Appearance and growth
All Spathiphyllum species are herbaceous and clumpy plants that grow between 30 and 120 centimeters high. The species is persistent and, if cared for well, can live for many years or even decades and during this time it can reach an impressive size - also in terms of its size! - to reach. Over the years, a strong rootstock develops. The single leaf has a rhizome that develops just below the surface of the substrate and can also partly be seen on the surface. The leaves sprout directly from the rhizome. The species does not produce milky sap, which is typical for many arum plants.
leaves
The most striking thing about the monoleaf is probably its large, shiny green and metallic shimmering leaves. These grow to around 25 centimeters long and have long stalks. They have an elliptical to elongated shape with a clearly defined, triangular midrib. Spathiphyllum also owes its name to its attractive foliage: the word “spatha,” which comes from the Greek, refers to spoon-shaped tools such as a spatula or spade, an oar blade or even a sword, while the second part of the botanical name, the also Greek phýllon, simply means “Leaf” means. In fact, the genus belongs to the botanical order Alismatales.
However, the large leaves can do more than just look beautiful: the single leaf is considered an excellent room air purifier and filters out potentially toxic components such as formaldehyde, benzene, ammonia and others. For this reason, it is recommended to place spathiphyllum in bedrooms.
Flowers and flowering time
Usually between March and September, the single leaf produces long-stemmed, yellowish flowers that are surrounded by a white to greenish bract. In winter, however, no new flowers usually develop. Some species and varieties also give off a light scent of vanilla. The flowers last for several weeks, but over time they change color from bright white to greenish.
Spathiphyllum is not blooming, what to do?
If the single leaf does not want to bloom, there are various possible reasons. This is often due to a location that is too dark and/or incorrect watering or fertilizing behavior. Although the species thrives very well in the shade, it needs brightness to produce flowers - although not direct sunlight. You should also fertilize the heavy-feeding plant regularly and not water it with cold water directly from the tap.
If the best care doesn't help - which can often be the case with older specimens - the following measure helps: Place the leaflet in a cool place for a few months over the winter months, for example in an unheated or slightly heated bedroom, and stop fertilizing and pour only a little. After at least eight weeks, water the plant thoroughly and fertilize heavily with a good flowering plant fertilizer. Afterwards it should sprout numerous new flowers.
Fruits
Spathiphyllum generally does not produce fruit when grown indoors due to the lack of pollination. In its natural location, green berries containing up to eight tiny seeds develop after flowering.
Toxicity
The leaflet is poisonous to both people and animals and should therefore not be placed in households with small children and/or pets (especially cats, dogs, small rodents and birds) or should only be placed out of their reach. Possible poisoning with Spathiphyllum manifests itself, among other things: through increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.
Spathiphyllum is also considered to cause allergies, with the flowers and pollen in particular having corresponding potential.
Which location is suitable?
As in its natural habitat in the tropical rainforest, the single leaf thrives best in a bright, partially shaded place without direct sunlight, with high humidity and at temperatures between 18 and 25 °C. Shady places, such as near a north-facing window, are also well suited. However, the plant produces many dark green leaves but hardly any flowers. In locations that are too sunny, however, there is a risk of sunburn, which is primarily manifested by leaf edge damage. Spathiphyllum is particularly sensitive to the sun during the flowering period. The plants feel most comfortable in a bright bathroom due to the permanently higher humidity.
However, even in winter it can't get cooler than around 15 °C.read more
Substrate
As a substrate, use high-quality, normal potting soil - preferably compost-based and without cheap peat - and mix it with expanded clay or clay granules for better permeability. Alternatively, you can mix the potting soil yourself as compost soil, leaf mold and sand - in equal parts. Make sure that the base materials are free of pathogens such as fungi and do not contain any germinable weed seeds. For this reason, disinfect the mixed substrate in the oven or microwave.
Planting and repotting
The single leaf does not need a very large plant pot, but due to its rapid growth it should be repotted into a larger pot every year. However, since the end point is at a certain height, which varies depending on the species and variety, the final plant pot should not be larger than about 20 centimeters in diameter. When the plant is fully grown, you only need to replace the used substrate with fresh one every two to three years. But whether when planting or repotting, good drainage in the planter is always important. This definitely needs a drain through which excess irrigation water can flow away unhindered. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with larger shards of pottery etc. to prevent it from becoming muddy and therefore clogging.
Hydroculture
You can create perfect conditions for the single leaf if you keep it hydroponically. The plant is very suitable for this form of houseplant cultivation, especially since you don't have to worry about regular watering and fertilizing. Prefer special pots with a water level indicator and only use fertilizers suitable for hydroponics. These have to be put together and prepared differently than conventional fertilizers for plants grown in soil.read more
Watering single leaf
As a typical rainforest plant, the single leaf requires a lot of moisture, but under no circumstances should it remain permanently wet. Waterlogging inevitably leads to root rot and thus the death of the houseplant. Although “wet feet” do no harm in the short term, you should always remove excess water from the planter or saucer as soon as possible. Keep the leaf evenly moist, watering again whenever the substrate surface has already dried slightly. In the winter months, Spathiphyllum generally needs less water, provided it is a little cooler and not necessarily directly next to or above a heater.
Also, especially during the winter months, you should ensure high humidity and regularly spray the leaf all over with a sprayer. The plant also enjoys an occasional lukewarm shower.read more
Fertilize one leaf properly
Since Spathiphyllum, like almost all rainforest plants, is a heavy feeder, you should provide it with a high-quality fertilizer for flowering plants between March and October. Fertilize approximately every two to four weeks, according to the package instructions. You need to fertilize small specimens less often than larger ones, as they naturally have lower nutrient requirements. Make sure that the fertilizer contains little nitrogen and instead contains phosphorus. This promotes the formation of flowers, while nitrogen primarily drives shoot and leaf growth. Always fertilize on moist substrate and look out for signs of possible over-fertilization.
By the way, the single leaf can also be fertilized very well with plain coffee grounds, although this is not sufficient as a constant sole fertilizer.read more
Cut a single sheet correctly
Regular pruning is neither necessary nor appropriate for single leaves. You can only cut off faded and dried shoots directly above the substrate base.read more
Propagate single leaf
You also don't need to cut back a single leaf that has become too large to reduce the size of the plant. Instead, you can easily divide such a specimen and get one or even several offshoots at the same time. And this is how it works:
- Unpot one leaf, remove soil from roots
- Select separation points
- preferably separate runners
- each individual root part should have at least one shoot
- Separate the rootstock in the designated places using a sharp knife
- plant the individual plants in their own pots
While dividing works quite reliably, propagation from cuttings is almost impossible with the single leaf. However, you can still use seeds - which are occasionally available commercially - to grow new plants. However, it is difficult for the layperson to get Spathiphyllum to germinate and then grow - this project requires a lot of patience and good botanical knowledge.read more
Diseases and pests
The leaf is very robust and rarely gets sick. Signs of illness such as brown or yellow leaves are usually due to care errors and should be treated accordingly. When it comes to pests, mealybugs or aphids can occasionally be found on Spathiphyllum, as well as spider mites (“red spiders”) if it is kept too dry. You can easily get rid of these creatures with an occasional warm shower or more frequent use of an atomizer.
Yellow leaves
Yellow leaves on the single leaf can have various causes:
- Pest Infestation
- Nutrient Deficiency
- Waterlogging
Especially if the leaves are not only turning yellow but are also drooping, you are most likely keeping the plant far too wet and its roots have already started to rot. Pot up the affected leaf immediately, cut away the diseased parts of the plant (including the rotten roots) and place it in a new planter and fresh substrate. In the future, water the plant less and only after a finger test.
If the yellow leaves appear for no apparent reason, spider mites that cannot be seen with the naked eye are often behind them. Since these pests like dry and warm weather, they can be easily eliminated by increasing the humidity.
Brown leaves and leaf spots
The leaflet also usually reacts to care errors with leaves turning brown or leaf spots:
- brown leaf tips: a clear indication that the air is too dry, increase humidity
- brown, drying leaves: overwatering (waterlogging) or lack of water, repot the single leaf in fresh substrate or water it
- brown leaf spots or dots: over-fertilization, repot single leaf in fresh substrate
- dark brown, ring-shaped leaf spots: leaf spot disease, cut off affected leaves
Green flowers
Some varieties of the single leaf naturally develop green-white or green bracts, so this is completely normal and you don't have to worry. However, if the bracts of your variety are actually bright white instead of green, the plant is most likely too dark. In this case, moving to a brighter place will help, although you should of course avoid direct sunlight. By the way, the white flowers, which last for weeks, turn greenish after some time when they fade. This phenomenon is also completely normal and no reason for countermeasures.
Tip
As a rule, the single leaf stays he althier and thrives better if you keep the substrate relatively dry and spray the large leaves with water more often. In this way, not only do the common, unsightly-looking brown leaf tips have no chance, but also the warmth and moisture-loving spider mites.
Species and varieties
The most commonly cultivated types of single leaf are:
- Spathiphyllum floribundum: pearly white bract, yellow spadix, leaves up to 20 centimeters long
- Spathiphyllum patinii: similar to S. floribundum, but with narrower and longer leaves
- Spathiphyllum wallisii: green-white bract, short spadix, very tall growing species
In addition to the species mentioned, there are some interesting hybrid forms in cultivation:
- ‘Gemini’: variegated foliage
- ‘Chopin’: stocky growth
- ‘Sweet Paco’: delicate vanilla scent
- 'Pearl Cupido': dark green, lanceolate leaves
