In the vegetable garden, monocultures can not only quickly become boring, but also dangerous: pests and fungal or bacterial pathogens spread more quickly, and similar plants are always competing with each other for nutrients and water. Therefore, the winter months are the optimal time to plan optimal mixed cultures for the beds. Then different types of vegetables grow in the same bed at the same time - and complement each other perfectly.
How do I plan mixed crops in the vegetable garden?
When planning mixed crops in the vegetable garden, you should consider different plant families and their compatibility, mix heavy, medium and weak feeders, and combine plants with different growth habits and root depths. Crop rotation and pre-, main- and post-crops are also important.
Which vegetables get along well – and which ones don’t
However, you can't combine all the vegetables together. Instead, successful mixed culture or row mixed culture requires careful planning, because not all plant species or plant families tolerate each other indefinitely. There are others that complement each other perfectly instead. When planning the mixed vegetable patch, pay particular attention to these points:
- Mix heavy, medium and weak eaters.
- Always plant heavy feeders first and do not mix them with other heavy feeders.
- In addition to bushy plants, slender, tall species are planted.
- In addition to deep-rooted plants, species with shallow roots thrive best.
- In both cases, the plants do not get in each other's way due to different growth.
- Flowering perennials and herbs such as lavender, dill, parsley are particularly suitable as borders
When planning the planting, pay attention not only to the rules for successful mixed culture, but also to the so-called crop rotation.
This family of plants are incompatible with each other
In particular, the species of the following plant families should not be planted in close proximity either in mixed culture or in crop rotation, as they are incompatible with themselves and each other:
- Chenopodiaceae: beetroot, spinach, chard
- Umbelliferae: parsley, carrots, parsnips, celery, fennel, dill
- Pumpkin family (Cucurbitacea): cucumber, melon, pumpkin
- Crucifera: garden cabbage, radish, radishes, rocket, Chinese cabbage, bok choy, garden cress
Above all, make sure that no (larger) crop residues from cabbage plants remain on the bed. This can have a negative impact on subsequent crops such as spinach, lettuce, carrots and beans. In addition, you should not grow the same plants (families) on the same bed every year, but always change the fruit. This allows the soil to recover and is not one-sidedly depleted.
Pre-, main- and post-crops
Basically, a distinction is made in the garden between pre-, main- and post-culture. Pre-crops (such as spinach) can be sown at temperatures as low as four degrees Celsius; they mature quickly and are usually ready to harvest within four to six weeks. Main crops follow from around mid to late May and later, with secondary crops starting in late summer. The rule applies that pre- and post-cultures must not hinder the main crops.
Tip
When sowing or planting, please note the different ripening times. You can prevent a glut of certain vegetables at one time by not planting the same species in the bed at the same time, but rather about a week apart.
