The chrysanthemum, a very popular pot and garden flower in this country, can look back on more than 2,000 years of cultural history. The autumn flower was so popular in the ancient Chinese and Japanese empires that a stylized flower still adorns the coat of arms of Japan today. Not quite 200 years ago, the plant finally reached Europe and experienced a legendary triumph here - there is hardly a garden or household in which one of the numerous varieties can be found. The following article will tell you how to properly plant and care for the autumnal messenger.
How to properly care for chrysanthemums?
Chrysanthemums are diverse ornamental plants known for their late blooming period from September to November. They prefer a bright, cool location with nutrient-rich, humus-rich and well-drained soil. To care for chrysanthemums, they should be watered, fertilized and pruned regularly.
Origin and distribution
The name of the extremely diverse flower comes from Greek and means something like “golden flower”. In fact, the wild forms of the chrysanthemum mainly have yellow to yellow-orange flowers. The species and varieties bred over the last two millennia - including many hybrids - are very varied in terms of colors and shapes.
The chrysanthemum originally comes from East Asia, where it was particularly popular in China and Japan.it still is today. Due to its very late flowering shortly before the start of winter and its durability, it is considered a symbol of endurance and strength - so it is no wonder that the Chinese emperor had it cultivated and grown as an imperial flower in his gardens until 1911.
The first Asian breeding forms only reached Europe in the middle of the 19th century.
Usage
Chrysanthemums are mainly used as ornamental plants in beds and borders, but also in pots and other planters. They bring color into the garden or onto the balcony when all other plants have long since faded and withered. For this reason, the selection of suitable planting partners is not very large: However, the autumn flowers go very well with evergreen plants, grasses such as switchgrass, feather grass or miscanthus or shrubs and robust perennials such as sedum, purple bells, catnip or curry herb. However, chrysanthemums are best displayed as lush soloists, either individually or in the company of different varieties.
Appearance and growth
The genus, which includes around 40 species, belongs to the daisy family (Asteraceae). As such, they often grow as woody sub-shrubs or bushes, while some chrysanthemum species have a more herbaceous habit. The varieties we often cultivate grow to an average height of between 40 and 100 centimeters and reach a growth width of between half a meter and a meter. The bushes are typically densely branched and, depending on the species and variety, can take on hemispherical shapes.
leaves
The green leaves of all species and varieties are arranged alternately, but their shape sometimes differs considerably. They can be pinnate or unpinnate, lobed, palmate, entire or toothed. What all chrysanthemums have in common is that they retain their leaves throughout the winter and these do not take on any autumn colors.
Flowers and flowering time
Chrysanthemums are characterized by their late flowering period, which only begins in September and often lasts well into October or even November. The range of colors of the cup-shaped, double, semi-double or even simple inflorescences is immense: there are white, yellow, orange and pink, red and violet variants that produce very large or small flowers. Large-flowered chrysanthemums develop flowers twelve or more centimeters in diameter, while small-flowered varieties produce pretty flowers about five to six centimeters in size. But whether large or small: All chrysanthemums bloom profusely and for a long time, with the individual flowers being very durable.
Fruits
The types of chrysanthemums available in hardware stores, garden centers, etc. are usually sterile and do not produce any fruits. However, if you leave the spent inflorescences on the bush in some species, such as the autumn chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum), tiny achenes, less than two millimeters in size, mature. These are the seeds of these species, which can be used for propagation.
Poisonous or edible?
Whether the chrysanthemum in your garden is poisonous and therefore dangerous to children and pets essentially depends on the type and variety. Some, such as the Tanacetum species, also known as winter aster or wildflower, contain a toxic substance called pyrethrum, which is used in insect repellents due to its effectiveness. With the help of this poison, the plants protect themselves from predators, which is why people and animals also have to be careful. Consuming poisonous chrysanthemums leads to unpleasant or even severe symptoms of poisoning such as cramps, stomach and intestinal problems, diarrhea and vomiting.
Other types of chrysanthemums, however, are used as tea or spice plants. You can use both the flowers (for tea) and the young leaves (for salads) of the so-called edible chrysanthemums. The one-year-old Chrysanthemum coronarium, also known as lettuce chrysanthemum, is primarily used for this purpose.
If you want to cultivate chrysanthemums for salad, you should grow the plants yourself from seeds. Finished, purchased plants are usually treated with pesticides and other toxic substances and are therefore not approved for consumption.
Which location is suitable?
The beautiful flowers of the various types of chrysanthemums only appear when the days become shorter and the temperatures drop. In order to bloom abundantly, the plants need a bright but rather cool location with temperatures of less than 25 °C. If it is too warm for them, they produce only a few flowers or even no flowers at all. For the same reason, the flowers feel particularly comfortable in partially shaded to light shaded locations, while they risk drying out quickly in full sun.
Floor
As heavy feeders, chrysanthemums have a high nutrient requirement and should therefore be planted in nutrient-rich, humus-rich and rather fresh soil. Although the root balls of the plant should not dry out, waterlogging is just as dangerous and will cause the plant to die. Therefore, prefer loose and well-drained soil, which you can improve with compost or topsoil if necessary.
pot culture
Chrysanthemums feel very comfortable in a pot culture as long as they receive the necessary attention and care. The plants should be watered once or twice a week with well-stagnant tap water or rainwater, although root balls that are still wet do not need any water at this point. Chrysanthemums are not fertilized during the flowering period; instead, transfer the plants to winter quarters from the first frost. If necessary, repotting into fresh substrate is carried out in spring, and sufficient nutrition is ideally ensured with liquid fertilizer during the growing season.
Planting chrysanthemums correctly
Place the chrysanthemums in a bucket of water before planting so that the root ball can soak up the moisture. In the meantime, dig a planting hole that is about twice the size of the root ball itself. Slurry this in well and mix the excavated material with a shovel of compost soil and a handful of horn shavings. Plant the bush up to the root collar - this will help it survive the winter better - and, if necessary, tie it to a support rod. This help is particularly useful for tall-growing species and varieties so that they do not bend over.
What is the best time to plant?
Chrysanthemums are usually bought in autumn, as the selection is particularly large at this time. However, do not plant these specimens in the bed yet as they would hardly survive the winter. The optimal planting date is a mild day in spring or early summer, when the last nights of frost have passed. The plants now have enough time to take root in their new location and gain sufficient winter hardiness for the cold season.
The correct planting distance
In general, a planting distance of between 50 and 75 centimeters is recommended, although the large varieties naturally require more space than the smaller forms.
Watering the chrysanthemum
Unlike potted plants, you generally do not need to water planted chrysanthemums. Exceptions are dry and hot phases, for example in midsummer.
Fertilize chrysanthemums properly
Fertilize planted chrysanthemums twice a year with compost and horn shavings or a mixture of nettle and comfrey manure. The first fertilization takes place as booster fertilization in early spring, the second in early summer between the end of May and the end of June.
Cut chrysanthemum correctly
The right time to prune is early spring, when the temperatures become milder and the first tender shoots sprout from the ground. Now remove all wilted, dead or frozen branches. In addition, chrysanthemums can also be easily cut back during the summer, promoting branchy, dense growth. With age, the plants grow wider and, if well cared for, often produce more flowers.
Propagate chrysanthemums
The best way to propagate chrysanthemums is vegetatively through division or head cuttings. Dig up large bushes in spring and carefully divide them into two or more sub-bushes. On the other hand, you cut head cuttings in June or July, for which you select shoots that are about ten to 15 centimeters long and still soft. Plant these in small pots with low-nutrient growing substrate and keep them slightly moist. As a rule, the cuttings root within a few weeks and can then be transplanted into a pot with humus soil. However, do not plant these young chrysanthemums until the following spring at the earliest.
Wintering
In principle, planted chrysanthemums can overwinter outside, but require winter protection. Spread a thick layer of leaves and straw over the root area, which you can pile up a little directly on the main shoot. If it is very cold with temperatures in the double digits, you should also cover the bushes with spruce and fir branches. Under no circumstances should you cut back the faded plants in autumn, as the drying shoots provide additional protection from the cold.
Diseases and pests
A typical disease is white chrysanthemum rust, which is noticeable through white to yellow spots up to two centimeters in size on the tops of the leaves. On the underside, however, pustules covered with a flour-like fluff develop. Cut back the diseased plant parts with clean and sharp scissors (€14.00 on Amazon) and treat the plant with a suitable fungicide.
In terms of pests, miner flies in particular have taken a liking to chrysanthemums. The tiny insects drill holes in the leaves and lay their eggs there. The larvae that hatch eventually eat their way through the leaves, so that they are criss-crossed by numerous passages. Leafminer flies can be effectively repelled with neem-based pesticides. However, severely affected plant parts must be cut back.
Chrysanthemum doesn't bloom, what to do?
If chrysanthemums don't want to bloom, then they most likely haven't been supplied with enough nutrients. Potted chrysanthemums in particular rely on a regular supply of nutrients and, if this is not provided, they will drop their buds. Incorrect watering and a location that is too dark are also common causes of the lack of flowers.
Tip
If you celebrate your birthday in autumn, you can look forward to a colorful chrysanthemum bouquet. The flowers not only last a long time in the vase, they also promise a long life in flower language.
Species and varieties
There are around 40 different types of chrysanthemums, of course not all of which can be used as garden or ornamental plants. However, no one knows the exact number of varieties - estimates claim that around 12,000 different variants have been bred over the last few centuries. After all, it is a very old cultivated plant that was cultivated and specifically bred in gardens in China as early as the 11th century.
The autumn chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum indicum), the gold-and-silver chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum pacificum), the daisy-like Chrysanthemum zawadzkii and the garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) are particularly interesting for the garden the latter is mainly hybrid breeding forms. For gardeners, however, the species names are primarily less important than the variety names.
If you also want to plant the perennials in the garden, you should definitely use winter-hardy varieties. Caution is advised when purchasing, as the plants are usually offered without a specific variety name. If you want to be on the safe side, choose precisely named varieties from specialist retailers, such as a specialized perennial nursery.
The most beautiful chrysanthemum varieties for beds and pots:
- ‘Gigi White’: double, white-yellow flowers
- 'Red Yule': double, dark pink flowers
- 'Vianna Cream': large pompom flowers in bright yellow, only for the pot
- ‘Hue’: small, green pompom flowers
- 'Inga': large, multicolored flowers with white edge, yellow core and green center
- 'Victor Rowe': large, rich yellow and double flowers
- 'Poetry': yellow center framed by numerous white ray flowers
- ‘Goldmarie’: golden yellow, semi-double flowers
- ‘Mei-Kyo’: pink-violet pompom flowers
- ‘White Bouquet’: white pompom flowers
- ‘Schwabenstolz’: double, dark red flowers
- 'Yellow Satellite': spider-like, lemon-colored flowers
- ‘Emperor of China’: double pink flowers
- 'Goldmarianne': bright yellow ray flowers on a yellow center
- 'Vymini': bright yellow ray flowers on a dark center
- 'Palm Green': particularly unusual and eye-catching variety with grass-green flowers
- 'Anastasia': small, pink-violet pompom flowers, low growth
- 'Ceddie Mason': semi-double, deep wine-red flowers with a yellow center
- 'Golden Orfe': large, densely double and bright golden yellow flowers
- 'Little Amber': semi-double, apricot-colored flowers with a yellow center