Successful pruning of ornamental and fruit trees depends on careful and well-considered pruning. This guide explains in practical terms where and how to use scissors or a saw so that the plant continues to grow and cuts heal more quickly. Get to know the most important cutting techniques here with easy-to-follow instructions.
What pruning techniques are there when cutting trees?
When cutting woody plants, there are various cutting techniques, such as cutting on buds, cutting on astring, pruning and cutting thick branches in stages. Sharp tools, precise procedures and an exact understanding of the technology are crucial for success.
Cutting buds – how to do it right
The basic basics of cutting technology include cutting buds. If you are familiar with this technique, you can do the most important types of cutting in your home garden with flying colors. As the name suggests, the focus is on the buds of the plant. In order for growth to continue as desired, the bud must neither be injured nor be overhung by a long stub. How to do it right:
- cut 3 to 5 millimeters above a bud
- Cut slightly diagonally away from the eye
- Support the shoot with your free hand
The image below shows three common mistakes and the correct cutting technique.
A technically perfect cut is made just above an outward-facing bud.
Cutting on astring - this is how it works
The astring contains valuable dividing tissue (cambium), which turns into callus and covers cuts. One of the most important cutting techniques in tree care is aimed at not injuring the branch or causing distress with a long stub.
Place the saw above the bead-like thickening that marks the branch ring. Now saw or cut slightly diagonally towards the bottom and outside. Finally, smooth the edges of the wound with a knife or a knife. Please do not coat the cut wound with tree wax so that the wound wood can do its job without becoming blocked.
The Astring must never be injured, otherwise the wound will not heal properly. If there is no branch ring, cut parallel to the trunk without wounding the bark.
Cone cutting cheers up unwilling trees - here's how it works
The tenon cut proves that even cutting techniques cannot do without an exception. To ensure that stubborn trees such as rhododendrons, azaleas and various types of pome fruit can sprout again after a cut into the old wood, there is a tenon cut. How to use the cutting technique expertly:
- Cut the shoot back to a 5 to 10 centimeter long cone with a side shoot or leaf
- Where there is no shoot or leaf, cut on cones with a sleeping eye
The image below documents the cone cutting of pome fruit. The thicker the shoot to be removed, the longer the tenon can be. A side shoot or leaf prevents the cone from drying out. At the same time, the plant parts ensure that water and nutrients continue to be supplied. In the next season the plant will sprout in this place and the remains of the now dried cone can be removed.
So that trees that are unwilling to sprout grow vigorously, the usual pruning rules are violated. If you leave a small cone with a leaf or shoot standing, rhododendrons will also sprout again.
Cutting old, thick branches in stages – step-by-step instructions
If you remove thick, old branches, there is a risk that they will break during cutting and cause a large wound. You can prevent this damage by proceeding in stages. The following instructions explain the exemplary cutting technique step by step:
- Place the saw from below at a distance of 40 to 50 centimeters from the actual cutting point
- Saw the branch no further than the middle
- Pull out the saw and position it a little to the left or right from above
- Saw until the branch breaks off
It is thanks to this cutting technique that the trunk or main shoot remains uninjured. Cut the remaining branch stump on Astring while supporting it with your free hand.
Remove thick branches in several stages. First saw into the branch from below. Then saw against it from the top until the branch breaks. Finally, cut off the stub on Astring.
Tip
The perfect cutting technique only works if you use sharp, clean blades and saw blades. Clean and disinfect the tool before and after each use so that you do not transfer any pathogens to your trees. At least once a season you should sharpen the scissor blades and replace dull saw blades.
