The hazelnut is popular as a wild, romantic large shrub for staging as a solitary eye-catcher or free-growing natural hedge. The summer-green deciduous tree is on the rise as a majestic tree hazel in decorative varieties. Pruning at the right time plays a key role in the care program. This tutorial is full of instructions suitable for beginners about the wonderful hazelnut.
How should you cut the hazelnut?
There are different ways to cut the hazelnut. You carry out maintenance pruning on the bushes every three years. By cutting the plant you stimulate the branches for dense growth of the young hazelnut.
Cutting hazelnuts as a tree and bush
The cutting style depends largely on whether it is ahazelnut bush(Corylus avellana) or atree hazel (Corylus colurna). Both species and their varieties come from the hazel genus within the birch family. In March and April, the deciduous trees bear male catkin flowers and female, reddish flowers, which transform into aromatic, crunchy brown hazelnuts by autumn. A hazelnut bush grows to heights of up to 7 meters and is just as wide. Growth is characterized by an annual increase of 50 to 90 centimeters. As a tree, the tree reaches impressive dimensions of up to 20 meters high, with a crown width of 4 to 8 meters. Tree hazel takes things much slower, with annual growth of 20 to 35 centimeters. The following overview summarizes all types of cuts for shrubs and trees:
| Cut style | Goal/Occasion | best date |
|---|---|---|
| Plant cutting as a shrub | dense branching at the base of the bush | after planting |
| Training as a shrub | well-formed growth | during the first 3 to 4 years |
| Pruning as a shrub | Thin out dead wood, shorten shoots that are too long | between late autumn and late winter |
| Pruning Tree | light-flooded crown, control of crown expansion | after harvest |
| Rejuvenating shrub | revitalize aged hazelnuts | Beginning of October to the end of February |
| Tree rejuvenation cut | rejuvenate bald, sprawling crown | Beginning of October to the end of February |
For small gardens and pots, the hazel genus with thecorkscrew hazelgives us a naturalspontaneous mutationwith fascinating decorative value. Its branches form a spiral shape, which is what the name of the species refers to. The deciduous tree grows to a height of 150 to 250 centimeters, so that it can be used as a shrub or standard tree in the front garden as a friendly welcoming party. When it comes to pruning care, there areno differences to the usual hazelnut bush.
Pruning stimulates branching
If a hazelnut is on the design plan as a solitary shrub or free-growing natural hedge, gardeners do not have to dig deep into their pockets for young plants. Competent tree nurseries have bare-rooted young plants with a height of 60 to 100 centimeters available for 3 to 4 euros. Young bushes with root balls grown in containers are available for less than 10 euros. So that the trees grow vitally and he althily, targeted plant pruning gets the branching going. Follow the rule of thumb: the smaller the root volume and plant size, the more vigorously you cut. How to do it right:
- Cut back the hazelnut bush after planting
- Short all shoots on root crops by half
- Cut off damaged root strands
- On high-quality potted products, trim weak branches by a third, strong shoots only at the tips
As the illustration below shows, bold pruning may be necessary, even if it is difficult. Without consistent planting pruning, the hazelnut pumps all reserve substances towards the top buds in order to grow towards the light at a rapid pace. Buds located at the base of the plant are left almost empty, so that a bare bush base is inevitable on the day of planting. By cutting off the preferred buds at the tips of the shoots, you counteract the undesirable process.
Your hazelnut branches beautifully as a bushy bush if you carry out a planting cut. Prune all shoots by a third (potted) to half (bare-rooted). The resulting sap buildup causes dormant buds to sprout at the base of the bush.
Training a hazelnut bush
A hazelnut bush fits harmoniously into creative garden design if you build a stable framework over a period of three to four years. TheCommon Hazelnutsets itself off decoratively with7 to 10 ground shootsTheCorkscrew Willowshines as a spectacular whim of naturewith5 to 7 ground shoots in all their glory. By forcing upward growth in stages, you encourage dense branching near the ground. How to properly train a hazelnut bush:
- Time slot is open from the beginning of October
- Cut hazelnuts in frost-free weather without blazing sun
- Select the most promising ground shoots for the framework
- Cut off all remaining ground shoots at the base
Extend each scaffold shoot by around 10 centimeters per year until you reach the desired final height. Always cut within a short distance of an outward-facing bud or a conveniently positioned leaf node to determine the ideal growth direction for the next season. A distance of 3 to 5 millimeters from the bud is well chosen so that the growing point is not injured or does not sprout due to a stub that is too long.
Background
Perfect shape thanks to the training cut - jamming makes it possible
Pruning care in the first three to four years haspositive effects on the entire lifespan of a hazelnut. In order for the shrub to branch densely near the ground, the sap flow must be restricted during the youth phase. You can do this by removing the current top buds at least once a year to redirect the plant sap to deeper buds. Without a training cut, the growth law of top promotion rules, so that the growth is concentrated on the top buds. Buds positioned further down the bush remain dormant, resulting in a bare base.
Maintenance cut at 3-year intervals
If a hazelnut has successfully completed the training phase, pruning care is on the agenda at longer intervals. Under normal conditions, a maintenance cut every 2 to 3 years is beneficial for vitality and shape retention. In order to keep growth in check in a small garden, annual pruning appointments are advisable. How to cut expertly:
- The best time is in late autumn, from the beginning of October
- Thoroughly thin out dead wood
- Cut away branches growing inside the hazelnut
- Remove three to four of the oldest ground shoots in exchange for young shoots
- Scaffold shoots with heavily branched heads lead to a side shoot lower down
Continuous rejuvenation by replacing old shoots with young ones keeps your hazelnut vital and blooming. To reliably distinguish young from old wood, evaluate the degree of branching. Young, annual shoots thrive without branches. Only over the years more and more side branches are added.
You should thin out a hazelnut bush every 4 to 5 years. Dead wood and branches growing inwards are removed. Some of the oldest ground shoots make room for young scaffold shoots. You can slim down senescent shoot tips with a derivation cut.
Tip
Sometimes normal, straight wild shoots sprout from the rhizome of a corkscrew willow. Simply tear off the unwanted branches as soon as they catch your eye. Thanks to this caution, the bizarrely twisted branches in the bush retain the upper hand.
Tree hazel maintenance pruning – this is how it works
Tree hazel bears its slender, conical crown when it is young. Over time, the crown becomes noticeably flattened and reaches a width of up to 8 meters, with a height of 12 to 20 meters. This sometimes causes space problems in private gardens, which make regular pruning unavoidable. On this occasion, the crown should be cleared of dead wood and awkwardly positioned branches. How to cut tree hazel correctly:
- Cut tree hazel if necessary
- The best time is after harvest and leaf fall in autumn
- First cut back all accessible branches that have grown too long
- Thin out dead branches on Astring
- Twigs that are too long and heavily overhanging lead to a young side shoot
The wood is effortless to trim. Equipped with good quality pruning shears (either as bypass or anvil shears) and a telescopic pruning shear, you can cut back overly long shoots without dizzying climbs into the crown. If senescent, dead branches need to be thinned out, make the cut with a folding saw or hacksaw. In order to make the cut professionally, it is important to ensure that you do not damage the bark of a tree hazel. Cut or saw at a short distance from the bark or the branch ring, which can be seen as a bulge in the transition from the branch to the trunk.
Excursus
Thinning out thick branches in stages
The mighty crown of a hazel tree develops its picturesque pyramid shape without any cutting. However, as the tree matures, it may be necessary to remove an old, thick branch. Do notsaw the branch in question in one go. There is a great risk that it will tear off and cause a large wound on the bark. By using a special cutting technique, you can effectively prevent fatal damage. First place the saw approximately40 centimeters away from the actual cutting point. Saw the branch from the bottom down to the middle. Pull the saw out to move it 4 to 8 inches to the left or right. Now saw from above until the branch breaks off. Cut the stump to Astring. Finally, smooth the cut and apply a thin layer of tree wax to the edges of the wound to protect the valuable cambium wood from frost.
Rejuvenate old hazelnut bush
Without occasional thinning and maintenance pruning, a dense network of shoots develops in the hazelnut bush, which becomes bald due to a lack of light and produces noticeably fewer flowers and nuts. Instead of clearing an old hazelnut tree, boost growth, flowering and fruit yield with a radical rejuvenation cut. This is how it works:
- The best time is between the beginning of October and the end of February
- First cut off all dead ground shoots at the base
- Cut remaining scaffold shoots back to knee height
If you have placed a hazelnut on the stick, you will promote growth with a balanced supply of nutrients. Add 3 to 4 liters of compost and 100 to 150 grams of horn shavings per square meter of root disc. Rake the organic fertilizer superficially to avoid damaging the shallow root system. Then pour in plenty of water. Within two to three years, the shrub will have regenerated to bloom again and give you a bountiful nut harvest.
Background
Winter rejuvenation pruning in consensus with nature and law
In the middle of the summer growing season, the consequences of baldness and senescence on a hazelnut can no longer be overlooked. However, don't be tempted to immediately put an old bush on the stick. Breeding birds don't care about the decorative value of woody plants as long as they can find space in them to build their nests. Ecological jewels such as the hazelnut are very popular as an ideal retreat for the annual breeding business. For this reason, nature-loving gardeners leave their scissors and saws aside in the summer so as not to disturb feathered garden residents while they are caring for their offspring. The Federal Nature Conservation Act gives particular emphasis to the need and has a strictgrace period from March 1st to September 30thRadical cutting measures are exceptionally permitted from October 1st to February 28th, such as thinning or cutting -Stock-set.
Frequently asked questions
Are corkscrew hazel nuts edible?
With a corkscrew hazel, the decoratively twisted branches are the focus. That doesn't mean that the spherical brown fruits will be forgotten. In contrast to the wild variety, the attractive variant contains fewer nuts, which can of course be transformed into numerous delicacies. As a basic ingredient for sweet hazelnut cream or a hearty, aromatic hazelnut herb coating for meat dishes, corkscrew hazelnuts pamper the palate as well as being fresh and crunchy in morning muesli. It is important to note that harvesting at the right time is important for carefree enjoyment. Only pick hazelnuts when they have a rich brown shell.
At what age does the hazelnut first bear fruit? What can be the cause if the shrub does not bloom and bear fruit?
A hazelnut first goes through a juvenile phase. During this time the bush does not bloom or bear fruit. After 3 to 4 years in the garden, the large shrub puts on its flowers for the first time and produces crunchy hazelnuts in autumn. Pruning in winter is equivalent to a total loss of flowers and fruits because all the buds are removed. Furthermore, fertilization that is too rich in nitrogen can extend the youth phase by several years. If you prune your hazelnut according to the instructions in this tutorial and fertilize it with compost instead of blue grain, the nuts won't be long in coming.
Can I keep a hazelnut in a bucket on the terrace?
Cultivation in a bucket is definitely possible. Important prerequisites are an adequate supply of water and nutrients. In the limited substrate volume in plant containers, supplies are used up much more quickly than in beds. Furthermore, a suitable bucket should be at least 50 liters large so that the large shrub feels comfortable in it.
Are two hazelnuts (male and female) required for me to harvest fruit?
Hazelnuts (Corylus avellana) thrive as monoecious shrubs. This means that a shrub produces both male, long, yellow catkin flowers and female, small, red flowers and is self-pollinating. One specimen is therefore enough to harvest hazelnuts in autumn. A second hazel bush in the direction of the wind can increase the yield.
We have thoroughly thinned out our old hazelnut bush and would now like to plant it under it decoratively. Which plants are suitable for such a shady location?
Underplanting densely leafed hazelnuts should be tough. As shallow-rooted shrubs, they exert massive root pressure on their immediate surroundings. There is a lack of light beneath the dense foliage. Nevertheless, some shade-tolerant perennials are not deterred by the harsh living conditions on the root disk of a hazelnut and thrive magnificently. Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) is also part of the illustrious circle, as is cherry laurel as a ground cover (Prunus laurocerasus 'Mount Vernon'.
Is it possible to grow the hazelnut as a stem yourself? What should you pay attention to?
A young hazelnut with a straight central shoot is perfect for growing into a standard tree. Since the most beautiful hazelnuts thrive on sunny branches, we recommend building a hollow crown. First, guide the central shoot on a support rod to the desired height. Then, after two to three years, choose an advantageous branch and cut off the central shoot above it. Build a framework of four to six side branches arranged in a circle. Excess side shoots on the trunk are removed.
We would like to fence in our garden with a 10 meter long and 5 meter high wild fruit hedge. The hazelnut is our favorite. Which wild fruit trees go with this?
For a varied wild fruit hedge, we recommend combining hazelnuts with local wild fruit trees. Suitable planting partners are cornelian cherry (Cornus mas), true apple rose (Rosa villosa), serviceberry (Amelanchier spicata) and black and red currants (Ribes nigrum and Ribes Jonker van Tets). In addition, the dog rose (Rosa canina) provides picturesque cup flowers and colorful rose hips. With a planting distance of 120 centimeters, the bushes quickly form a dense hedge with a privacy factor.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
If a hazel bush does not give the gardener any nuts or transmutes into an impenetrable thicket, the pruning care has failed. Although common hazel and tree hazel rarely require pruning, pruning should not be completely ignored and should be done at the right time. The following table draws attention to the three most common mistakes surrounding the cutting of hazelnuts:
| Cutting errors | malicious image | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Shrub or crown never thinned out | bald, matted growth, few hazelnuts | thinning every three to four years |
| cut in late winter/spring | Loss of flowering period and fruit yield | always cut between late autumn and late winter |
| old bush placed on the stick in a passage | Total failure | Rejuvenate hazelnuts in three stages |
Haselnuss schneiden zurückschneiden Winterschnitt - Sträucher zurückschneiden schneiden
Tip
A common reason for pruning hazelnuts and corkscrew hazels is when they move to a new location. You can easily transplant the tree within the first five years as long as you observe two important premises. Transplanting should only be done during the leafless period of late autumn and winter. Furthermore, the lost root mass should be compensated for by cutting it back by half.
