Sage should be cut regularly so that its unique benefits can be fully appreciated. Expert pruning care distinguishes between herbaceous perennials and woody sub-shrubs. Read this tutorial on when and how to properly cut sage.
When and how do you cut sage correctly?
Sage should be trimmed regularly to promote its best growth and flavor. Flowering sage can be cut back to ground level in February/March and withered flower stems removed in summer. Spice sage should be cut from the end of February to mid-March in the herbaceous area and not into old wood.
Sage species differences
The diverse genus Sage provides home gardeners with magnificentornamental perennialsand aromaticspice bushes alike. Each of the two categories impresses with convincing attributes, so that both variants can be found in many gardens. Expert pruning care should take into account the different types of growth so that each type of sage shows its best side. Representative of the extensive genus, the following overview summarizes important cut-relevant differences for two popular species:
Flower sage, steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa)
- Herbaceous growth
- lavish flowering period from May to October
- Inedible leaves and flowers
- Death of all above-ground plant parts after the first frost
- Fresh shoots in spring from hardy rootstock
Spice sage, garden sage, common sage (Salvia officinalis)
- Broad bushy growth as a subshrub
- Progressive lignification from base to tip
- Herbaceous annual shoots with spicy, edible leaves
- Few violet-blue flowers from June to August
- Woody shoots mostly bare
Although sage is native to the Mediterranean, both species and the varieties derived from them prove to be well hardy in the Central European climate.
Cut flowering sage twice a year
In creative garden design, a regular place is reserved for flowering sage in the perennial bed. Steppe sage makes up for the inedibility of its felty leaves with a lavish display of flowers in the summer, accompanied by a wonderful scent. Since flowering sage is one of the remontant perennials, it celebrates its colorful appearance twice a season. Accordingly, the scissors are used in spring and summer. How to cut flower sage correctly:
- In February/March, cut off all shoots at ground level
- Then fertilize with compost and horn shavings
- Cut back wilted flower stems in mid-July to early August
- Cut approximately hand-width above the ground
Summer pruning should leave a few leaves on the stems so that the perennial can sprout and bloom again. Then apply a mineral fertilizer that quickly takes effect and encourages growth. If the second flower pile is coming to an end, no cutting is done. The dead shoots and leaves act as natural winter protection. You can only clean out withered flower spikes if you do not want to sow them yourself.
Tip
The summer cut of flowering sage leaves a fairly bare spot in the perennial bed for some time. Until the plant sprouts again, beautiful neighboring plants bridge the waiting time. Combine steppe sage with needle-leaved girl's eye (Coreopsis verticillata), chamomile (Anthemis) or pearl cup 'Silver Rain' (Anaphalis triplinervis). Sage also maintains a good relationship with pennisetum grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides), so that there are no empty bed regions.
Spice sage – cutting instructions
Pruning of spice sage is a constant battle againstprogressive woodinessReal sage primarily has its aromatic leaves on theherbaceous annual shoots These freeze back completely in the harsh winter and sprout again in spring. From below, the plant constantly strives to woody its shoots. Without regular pruning, the woodiness process takes over and puts an end to the growth of spicy leaves. When it comes to pruning care, sage is in line with other Mediterranean beauties such as lavender and rosemary. How to do it right:
- The best time is between the end of February and mid-March in frost-free weather
- Initially thin out all dead shoots at ground level
- Cut back remaining shoots to just above the woody areas
Following the central shape and maintenance pruning, sage gratefully accepts an organic fertilizer. A combination of mature compost and horn shavings stimulates the growth of the herb plant. In August, winter hardiness benefits from a potassium-rich fertilizer, such as comfrey manure.
De-tipping optimizes crop yield
Just a few weeks after the main late winter pruning, sage again becomes the focus of pruning care. In this case, the scissors can of course stay in the shed. If you prune the fresh shoots from mid-May onwards, the measure has several advantages. The beginning of the flowering period is postponed so that the aroma content of the leaves is retained longer. Furthermore, they promote further herbaceous branching, which increases crop yields and reduces woodiness.
To pinch, as pruning is called in technical jargon, hold the tip of a sage stalk between your thumb and forefinger. Use your fingernails to clip off the tip of the shoot where the next pair of leaves or buds is in the waiting position. Of course, you can also use clean, sharp scissors for tweezing.
Excursus
Hedge trimmer masters sage giants
If the chosen location simulates Mediterranean conditions, spice sage develops expansive dimensions. Attending to each individual shoot with one-handed pruning shears costs time and nerves. You are well equipped for the annual shape and maintenance cut with a two-handed hedge trimmer (€44.00 on Amazon), ideally with a bypass mechanism. As long as you make the cut in the herbaceous area, the subshrub will tolerate the bare-bones approach without any problems.
Rejuvenation pruning reverses woodiness
If older shoots are more than half or even two-thirds woody, there is the option of rejuvenation using a derivation cut. Look for an herbaceous side shoot along the woody sage branch. If you don't find what you're looking for, a swelling bud will signal that the subshrub still has potential for herbaceous, aromatic growth. The further down the side shoot or bud is, the more profound the rejuvenation effect.
Place the scissors just above the vegetation point. A distance of 5 to 10 millimeters ensures that you neither cut into the herbaceous shoot or bud nor leave an overly long stub. As illustrated in the figure below, the recommended pruning method significantly reduces the local level of woodiness and paves the way for herbaceous shoots with numerous sage leaves.
Each year, divert older shoots to a deeper, herbaceous side shoot or a vital bud. Where both components are missing, photograph the shoot at ground level. In this way you promote the growth of numerous young shoots with aromatic leaves.
Background
Spice sage saves with buds
As a typical Mediterranean subshrub, sage goes on the defensive when you cut into the wood. As generously as the Mediterranean herb plant lets spicy leaves sprout from the herbaceous shoots, it is also sparing when it comes to disposing of sleeping eyes. Native trees can rely on this iron reserve to continue growth after vigorous pruning. On spiced sage, a cut into the wood usually results in the end of growth. The only exception is in the rare case that you discover a thick, vital bud on the woody shoot. If you place the scissors at a distance of 5-10 mm, there is a good chance of sprouting.
Harvesting and cutting at the same time
Sage gardeners with limited time handle harvesting and pruning care at the same time. This also has the advantage that you harvest sage exactly when its aroma content is at its peak. The only prerequisite for a rational approach is sufficient capacity to freeze or dry the surplus harvest. How to proceed step by step:
- The best time is shortly before the flowering period begins
- Shower the sage bush the day before for a clean harvest
- Cut off entire shoots until just above the woodiness
- Thimout dead wood, stunted or diseased stems at ground level
Do not cut into old wood because growth usually stops at this point. If you limit the amount of cutting to the herbaceous, leafy area, new shoots will begin, which will give you another harvest if the weather conditions are suitable. This year's harvesting and pruning season for sage ends in mid-August so that the subshrub can mature before winter.
Does the combined harvest and care cut provide a larger yield than the kitchen can use? Then look for unwoody head cuttings. With a length of 5 to 10 centimeters, the shoot tips are perfect for propagation. Remove all leaves from the lower half and place each cutting in a pot with potting soil. In a warm, partially shaded location with regular water supply, rooting progresses quickly.
Frequently asked questions
Is sage hardy?
The most popular types of sage for beds and balconies are sufficiently hardy. This applies to common sage (Salvia officinalis) and flowering sage (Salvia nemorosa) as well as all varieties derived from them. Silverleaf sage (Salvia argentea) and clary sage (Salvia sclarea) also prove to be frost-resistant with light winter protection. If you are toying with extravagant sage species from subtropical regions, there is no question of winter hardiness. This applies, among others, to crested sage (Salvia viridis), honeydew melon sage (Salvia elegans) and fruit sage (Salvia dorisiana).
Are steppe sage flowers and leaves edible?
Steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa) is also called flower sage because its advantages relate to decorative aspects. The popular sage species adorns the summer herbaceous bed with picturesque flowers from May to October, accompanied by a seductive scent. If you are aiming to harvest spicy leaves and aromatic flowers, please use common sage (Salvia officinalis) or one of its many varieties.
We would like to transplant our three-year-old spice sage to a sunnier location? When and how does it work best?
The best time to change the location of spice sage is in early spring, as long as the plant has not yet sprouted. The less root volume is lost during digging, the better the plant will cope with the procedure. Plant the sage in the new location so that the previous planting depth is retained. Combine transplanting with vigorous pruning to restore balance between below-ground and above-ground growth. Adequate water supply is important afterwards to support re-rooting.
Is flowering sage a suitable rose partner?
From a botanical point of view, roses and flowering sage harmonize perfectly. Both types of plants place similar conditions on the site and do not get in each other's way with their roots. The essential oils also help ward off aphids and other pests on roses. Last but not least, flowering sage and roses want to be pruned at the same time in spring.
The withered flowers of my garden sage bother me a lot. Can I cut the perennial back now in October?
Radical pruning so close to winter is strongly discouraged. The herbaceous shoots serve as important winter protection even when dead. However, there is nothing wrong with cutting off the withered flower spikes if the well-kept appearance in the bed is affected. After the first frost, flowering sage should no longer be cut.
Flower sage 'Pusztaflamme' should actually grow tightly upright. In my garden it is falling apart and is partially lying on the ground. What to do?
Intense heat and drought can cause flowering sage to fall apart. A thrown ball or careless kick are also typical causes of the mishap. The perennial naturally grows tightly upright. By cutting back all shoots to a hand's width above the ground, you will stimulate new, upright growth this time.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
If you cut spice sage in the same way as flower sage, in the worst case scenario you will be faced with the complete loss of the valuable herb plant. If common sage ignores regular pruning care, the shoots will quickly become woody and no longer produce a delicious harvest. This table draws attention to common cutting errors on sage, points out typical damage patterns and gives short tips for effective prevention:
| Cutting errors | malicious image | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Spice sage cut like flower sage | poor growth to total failure | Do not cut spice sage into the wood |
| cut into bare wood | End of growth | woody shoots refer to a side shoot or a bud |
| never cut | oversized growth, massive woodiness | cut end of February to mid-March every year |
Another common cutting error affects both spice and flower sage. After the onset of winter, home gardeners who love order are tempted to cut off the dead plant parts prematurely. With this measure, the Mediterranean plant loses its natural winter protection. Note the date for pruning sage on the care plan at the end of February at the earliest, provided that no more severe frost periods are expected.
Tip
Cutting spiced sage leaves more clippings than the kitchen can handle. It's a good thing that sage leaves retain much of their aroma after drying. Bundle whole shoots into bouquets. Hang them upside down in an airy, dry place. Within one to two weeks, sage leaves will be dry and can be stored in an airtight screw-top jar until needed.