The imperial crown impressively presents itself in the spring garden with its royal splendor. At the same time, the onion flower defensively drives away voracious voles from the bed. Find out here how to skillfully care for a truly royal perennial. Frequently asked questions are not left without a practical answer.
How do you care for the imperial crown in the garden?
The imperial crown, an impressive bulb flower, is planted in autumn and blooms from April to May. For optimal growth, the plant needs a sunny to shady location, nutrient-rich and permeable soil as well as regular fertilization and watering.
Planting imperial crown correctly
When autumn knocks on the garden gate, it's time to ensure next year's abundance of flowers in the perennial bed or the cottage garden. If you plant the imperial crown in the ground between mid-August and mid-October in this sequence, there is a good chance of the first flowering next year:
- Thoroughly loosen the nutrient-rich soil in a sunny to shady location
- Make small pits 20-25 cm deep at a distance of 35-60 cm
- Sprinkle sand on the sole to prevent tuber rot
- Mix the excavated material with sifted compost and horn shavings
- Place one flower bulb at a time in the soil, press the substrate and water
Planting in the pot is the same, although instead of sand you should use some pottery shards, expanded clay or grit as drainage.read more
Care tips
An imperial crown is far less capricious than its exotic appearance suggests. The care program only includes the following measures:
- Fertilize the heavily consuming plant repeatedly organically from March until the end of the flowering period
- Do not let the substrate dry out
- Pour water directly onto the roots
- Cut off wilted flower stems to save energy for seed production
- Do not remove the leaves until they have completely yellowed and withered
In harsh winter regions, we recommend light winter protection for reasons of caution. Before the first frost, cover the plant with a layer of leaves secured with coniferous twigs. The mulch is removed again in time before the new shoots appear.read more
Which location is suitable?
The flower unfolds its oriental magic to perfection in a sunny to shady, warm and wind-protected location. The more sunlight hits the plant, the more intensive photosynthesis takes place with the resulting flower sculpture. The plant's exorbitant floral commitment also requires plenty of nutrients. Therefore, choose a location for the imperial crown with nutritious, humus-rich soil, fresh, moist and well-drained.
The correct planting distance
To determine the best possible planting distance, take the expected growth height and halve this value. For a plant with a height of 70-80 cm, the distance is 35-40 cm. Place majestic specimens that reach up to 120 cm in height at a distance of 60 cm from the bed neighbor.
What soil does the plant need?
The Imperial Crown depends on consistent access to nutrients in order to fulfill expectations as a magnificent flower. So settle the plant in this soil:
- Rich in nutrients
- Humosy and sandy-loamy with a fresh, moist consistency
- Well-drained, loose and deep
In the planter, the flower creates an exotic flair if it is treated to high-quality, structurally stable potted plant soil.
What is the best time to plant?
The optimal planting time for the royal onion flower is from mid-August to mid/late October. The earth is still warm from the summer sun and richly populated by busy soil organisms. In this perfect soil, the underground survival organ establishes itself in time before winter and extends its roots.read more
When is flowering time?
From April to mid/end of May, the magnificent flower pampers us with its distinctive blossom. So that there is no floral dreariness at the location in the following period, wisely chosen plant neighbors should be on hand. The carpet-forming Clematis Praecox or comparable, summer-flowering ground cover is ideal.read more
Cut the imperial crown correctly
Thanks to its winter-resistant bulb, the imperial crown thrives as a perennial in the bed for many years. So that the plant can play this botanical card perfectly, professional cutting becomes the focus of the care program. How to do it right:
- Cut off withered flower stems including the leaves with a sharp, disinfected knife
- Leave the lanceolate leaves on the plant until they are fully absorbed
Please consider the high poison content of this plant not only when cutting imperial crowns. Be sure to wear gloves and long-sleeved clothing when carrying out any care work on this flower. The clippings should be immediately covered with leaves on the compost to prevent animals from feeding on them and suffering fatal poisoning.read more
Casting the imperial crown
Keep an eye on the substrate surface of imperial crowns. When the top 2-3 cm dry, the flower is watered. Give the water directly to the roots, as watering will affect the impressive flowers. In pot culture, the daily thumb test provides more information about the current watering requirement. Experience has shown that the watering can is used more often here than in the bed.
Fertilize imperial crown properly
When it comes to providing nutrients to an imperial crown, you shouldn't be skimpy because you are caring for a heavy feeder. At the beginning of budding, add a well-measured portion of compost with horn shavings and add nettle manure on top. This fertilization is repeated every 14 days until the end of the flowering period. Alternatively, provide the plant with a slow-release fertilizer in the specified dosage. In the pot, the flower thanks the regular application of liquid fertilizer with vital flowering.
Pests
Since the imperial crown is a member of the lily family, the cunning lily chicken always has the flower in its sights. Look out for the 6-8 mm small, shiny red beetles from the end of March. While the pests nibble on the leaves, they also lay eggs on the plant so that the voracious larvae can then attack them. How to keep the plague under control:
- Read the beetles regularly
- Spray the affected plant several times with wormwood or tansy tea
- Protect the onions with neem preparations
If the infestation pressure becomes excessive, specialist retailers offer effective insecticides. This includes Compo Pest Free Plus or Lizetan Pest Free from Bayer Garten.
Wintering
We recommend proactive protective measures in the year of planting and in rough locations every year. To prevent frost and moisture from damaging the plant, cover it with leaves and pine fronds from the first frost until mid/end of February. In the pot, you carry the flower into the frost-free winter quarters so that the bulb does not freeze behind the relatively thin container walls.
Increase imperial crown
So that more specimens of this royal flower thrive in the garden, the plant supplies suitable propagation material on its own. If you dig up the onion in September/October, you will immediately see several daughter bulbs at the base. As offspring they have the potential for a magnificent imperial crown if they are treated as follows:
- Clean the soil from the dug up bulb and place it on a solid surface
- Cut the onions with a sharp knife
- Fill small pots with standard soil or pricking soil, plant one daughter bulb in each and let it root
- If you choose, plant the tubers immediately in loose garden soil in a sunny location
Sowing seeds, on the other hand, is a gardening adventure. The cold germinators must first be subjected to stratification in order to then care for them over a longer period of time until several pairs of leaves have developed. A long process of patience is required over several years until the first flowering occurs.
How do I transplant correctly?
After 3 to 4 years in the bed, the imperial crown has largely exhausted itself. Transplanting and dividing now has a rejuvenating effect on the beauty of the flowers. Between July and September, dig up the onion and place it on a solid surface. The clearly visible bulbs are separated with a knife or spade. After the soil at the previous location and at the new location has been optimized with compost, replant the mother onion and its daughters.
Is imperial crown poisonous?
Botanically classified as a member of the lily family, the imperial crown is considered poisonous to humans and animals. The main reason for this is a high content of steroid alkaloids. Consuming small amounts of leaves, flowers or bulbs has a harmful effect on he alth. Nausea, vomiting and life-threatening cardiovascular problems occur. Therefore, do not cultivate the flower in the family garden or on the balcony if there are children and pets in the immediate vicinity.read more
Imperial crown not blooming
If our hopes for a fantastic abundance of flowers come to nothing, the following reasons are behind the dilemma:
- Low-light location – solution: transplant to a sun-drenched location
- Compacted soil – solution: Optimize the soil with compost and sand
- Planting too deep - Solution: Dig up the bulb and plant it again at a maximum depth of 25 cm
- Nutrient deficiency – solution: Administer an immediately effective mineral-organic fertilizer
Last but not least, the flower requires a little patience until it blooms for the first time. Even with the most careful planting, flowering in the first year is not guaranteed. A plant propagated from a seedling takes up to 5 years before it presents us with its flower crown.read more
How does the imperial crown drive away voles?
With an unpleasant garlic smell emanating from the bulbs, the imperial crown warns approaching enemies of its high poison content. That's why troubled hobby gardeners swear by the flower as a biological deterrent against voles and moles. Since it is a hardy plant, the onion has this helpful effect all year round. With a single specimen, however, you will hope in vain that the pests will not appear. Only in larger groups does the frightening smell accumulate to such an extent that the rodents run away.
Beautiful varieties
- Aureomarginata: Breathtakingly beautiful with variegated, cream-yellow edged foliage and scarlet red flowers
- Garland Star: Majestic magnificent specimen with orange-red flowers and a height of up to 120 cm
- Vivaldi: Yellow-orange flowering plant that is well suited for the pot thanks to its compact silhouette
- Rubra Maxima: A red-orange rarity that gives the cottage garden a noble touch; Growth height 60-100 cm
- Chopin: The flower impresses with its delicate shape and elegant flowers in muted red; Growth height 60-70 cm
