With its preference for wet feet, the marsh marigold is recommended as a spring-fresh greenery for ponds, wet meadows and swampy locations. As early as March, the flower with its butter-yellow petals awakens our anticipation of spring, swarmed by bees, bumblebees and butterflies. Find out about proper cultivation here with compact answers to frequently asked questions.
What is the marsh marigold?
The marsh marigold is a spring-like plant that prefers to grow in wet soils such as ponds and wet meadows. It blooms from March to May with yellow, cup-shaped flowers and attracts bees, bumblebees and butterflies. It is easy to care for and hardy.
Planting marsh marigold correctly
The marsh marigold does not tend to overgrow. This means you can save yourself the effort of planting in a basket. It still makes sense to use a plant basket on the edge of a fish pond so that the fish do not damage the rhizomes when they are feeding. Place the perennial in nutrient-rich, moist to boggy soil with a water level of up to 5 cm. For this purpose, create small planting holes 25-30 cm apart with 1.5 times the volume of the root ball. Do not add fertilizer to the planting hole on or in the pond to avoid playing into the hands of the dreaded algae bloom. Planted in a wet meadow or herbaceous bed, water abundantly and regularly during the day itself and afterwards.
Care tips
The closer the conditions at the chosen location are to the optimum, the less effort the maintenance requires:
- Water regularly and abundantly outdoors
- Ideally use soft rain and normal tap water alternately
- Administer an organic starting fertilizer outdoors with compost, horn shavings or bark humus
- Cut off withered flower heads down to the basal leaves for summer rebloom
As a native perennial, the spring flower is completely hardy. It is sufficient to leave the fallen leaves on the plant until February as natural winter protection. Cut the perennial close to the ground in good time before new shoots appear. Please consider the toxic ingredients during all planting and care work. Therefore, always wear protective gloves.read more
Which location is suitable?
As one of the most popular waterside perennials, the marsh marigold prefers a sunny to partially shaded location. A moist, loamy-swampy soil with a water depth of up to 5 cm is considered the basic requirement for a lavish abundance of flowers. By the way, a fluctuating water level doesn't cause any problems for the little flower beauty.read more
The correct planting distance
The heart-shaped foliage spreads like a clump, so that the marsh marigold grows almost as wide as it is tall. You take this into account with a planting distance of 25-30 cm. In small tuffs with 3-5 specimens, the harbinger of spring comes into its own. For a flat arrangement, ideally plant 10-12 specimens per square meter.
What soil does the plant need?
A nutrient-rich, moist to swampy soil encourages the marsh marigold to grow magnificently and bloom lavishly. In the shallow water zone of ponds and streams, the yellow harbinger of spring thrives in a water depth of up to 5 cm. A place in the spring-fresh soil of a wet meadow is also welcome for this vigorous perennial. A pH value of 5.8 to 6.5 is advantageous; However, this does not represent a mandatory criterion.
What is the best time to plant?
A marsh marigold grown in a container can be placed in moist soil from spring to autumn. As long as the ground or water is not frozen and there is no threat of delayed ground frost, plant the harbinger of spring in the garden. The best planting time is from the end of August to mid-October.
When is flowering time?
The pure species covers the swampy, damp edge of the pond with countless splashes of yellow from March onwards. The main flowering period of decorative hybrids extends from April to May. The majority of marsh marigolds have the potential to bloom again. Therefore, cut off the withered flower heads to just above the basal leaves. In this way you can initiate a summer bloom.read more
Cut marsh marigold correctly
If you cut back the withered flower heads after the first flowering period, the marsh marigold will eagerly replant. The result is a re-bloom between July and September, which is usually slightly weaker. Leave the retracted leaves on the perennial as natural winter protection. Only cut the plant off close to the ground in January/February, in good time before the fresh shoots appear.
Water marsh marigold
There is sufficient moisture available for the marsh marigold in the shallow water zone or on the banks of your private water world. If the spring flower thrives in a fresh, moist perennial bed or a wildflower meadow, water regularly. Constantly moist soil is essential for vital growth, because dryness inevitably means the end for the little beauty. Ideally, you should alternate collected rainwater and tap water to keep the pH balanced between 5.8 and 6.5.
Fertilize marsh marigold properly
Swept by nutrient-rich pond water, there is no need to add fertilizer. Planted in a bed or a flower meadow, the marsh marigold gratefully accepts organic fertilization. In March, work compost and horn shavings superficially into the soil and then water generously. Alternatively, apply a mineral-organic liquid fertilizer for flowering plants.
Diseases
A type of rust fungus has specialized in infesting marigolds. Puccinia c althae is visible to the naked eye in the form of brown and yellow pustules on the leaves. These are spore nests from which the entire flower becomes infected. Cut out infected plant parts immediately to prevent further spread. Unless the marsh marigold is on the edge of a fish pond, combat the fungal infection with an approved fungicide, such as Amtempo Kupfer-Fungzfrei (€23.00 at Amazon). As a preventive measure, do not water the plant overhead, as the fungal spores only germinate on damp leaves.
Wintering
The native flower is completely frost-resistant. It sheds its leaves in autumn, while the root ball with its strong rhizomes survives the cold season in the ground. If possible, leave the withered leaves on the perennial as natural winter protection and only cut them off close to the ground in February.
Propagate marsh marigold
Simple, single-variety propagation is achieved by dividing the root ball in spring or autumn. To do this, dig up the perennial, cut it in half and plant the segments in moist, nutrient-rich soil in a sunny location. In contrast, sowing proves to be more complex due to the high water requirement. Furthermore, the seeds are cold germinators, which require stratification. This is how it works:
- Fill a waterproof plastic bowl with nutritious muddy soil
- Sow the seeds, sieve thinly with substrate and press down
- Fill the container with lime-free water until the seed soil is 0.5 to 1 cm deep under water
- Set up in a partially shaded location at 18-22 degrees Celsius for 2-4 weeks
- Then store in the refrigerator at -4 to 0 degrees Celsius for 4-6 weeks (the water may freeze)
After the cooling period, gradually accustom the seeds to higher temperatures between 5 and 12 degrees Celsius, for example in a cold box. Only later on do you care for the seedlings on the warm, partially shaded windowsill at 15-18 degrees Celsius.
Swamp marigold in pot
If there is neither a body of water nor a bed available, you still don't have to do without the distinctive perennial. Cultivate the marsh marigold on the balcony in a waterproof pot filled with nutritious muddy soil. Add soft water so that the level remains at 1-3 cm. Apply a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants in March and after the first pruning. If you take the time to cut off withered flower heads, the flower will be replanted reliably. Before the first frost, cut the plant close to the ground and move the pot to the frost-free winter quarters. During dormant growth, the substrate should only be kept slightly moist so that the root ball does not dry out.
Is marsh marigold poisonous?
The marsh marigold is one of the moderately poisonous ornamental plants. When consumed, the toxins they contain cause classic symptoms of poisoning, such as nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Mere skin contact triggers allergies and inflammation. Therefore, do not plant the flower in the family garden or out of the reach of pets. It makes sense to wear gloves during all planting and care work. The use of the buds as a caper substitute in the past was an act of pure desperation in times of need and resulted in symptoms of poisoning if consumed in excess.
Swamp marigold not blooming
In the sandy, dry location you will look in vain for the buttery yellow flowers. The marsh marigold is rightly named because the perennial can only grow and thrive in moist to swampy soil. Where all the conditions are right and there is still no flowering, it is probably a specimen propagated from seedlings. Flowers grown from seeds take 2-3 years before they bloom for the first time.
Yellow leaves
Unless it is the hybrid Aurea with golden yellow foliage, yellow leaves indicate a deficiency. If the pH value in the soil rises significantly above 6.5, the high lime content contains important nutrients. This primarily causes the supply of iron to come to a standstill. In response, leaf chlorosis occurs with yellow-colored leaves. If you switch the water supply to soft water, the marsh marigold will recover. In the short term, a special iron fertilizer compensates for the deficiency.
Beautiful varieties
- Multiplex: Premium variety with double pompom flowers in bright yellow from April to May; 20-30cm
- Alba: White-flowering spring beauty with extra early flowering from March and compact stature; 15-25cm
- Aurea: Colorful hybrid with yellow, single flowers over golden yellow leaves; 20-30cm
- Trattberg Gnome: Ideal for planting on the edges of small water worlds with yellow cup flowers from April to May; 15cm
- Caucasus marsh marigold: A robust hybrid that towers 20 cm taller than its counterparts; 60cm
