The lavish blossoms of almond trees are the result of ideal conditions and skilful pruning care. You are granted a white-pink flower fairytale every year when aregular cut clears the way for the young flowering wood. You can read in detail when and how to prune Prunus triloba perfectly in this tutorial.
How do I cut an almond tree correctly?
In order to prune an almond tree correctly, you should cut back dead shoots after flowering and rejuvenate old branches. When raising a shrub or standard tree, training steps and maintenance cuts play an important role.
Flowering on annual long shoots – what does that mean?
Almond trees are among the classic spring bloomers that support their valuable blossom wood on a stable structure. Cultivated as a magnificent shrub, the basic structure reaches a height of 150 to 200 centimeters. Creative home gardeners are happy to train the Asian ornamental tree as a picturesque standard tree or purchase it ready-made from the master gardener in a tree nursery or garden center. The delicate pink flower clusters unfold most beautifully onannual long shoots The more of these short-lived shoots appear on the bush and treetop, the more opulent the abundance of flowers.
For expert pruning, the question arises as to how the growth of annual long shoots can be promoted. A short excursion into the different types of shoots sheds light on the matter. This is how you recognize and promote the young blossom wood on almond trees:
- Long shoots are at least 15 to 20 centimeters long, often significantly longer
- Growth in summer with synchronous formation of flower buds
- Recognizable as unbranched side shoots on supporting scaffold shoots
- Unfolding flower buds in April
As the illustration below shows, annual shoots can be recognized by the fact that they only branch in later years. Once annual long shoots on the almond tree have borne flowers, they quickly age. It is therefore an advantage if you cut back the dead, annual shootsafter the flowering periodIn this way you create space for young shoots that will grow in length over the course of the summer and produce numerous buds create the next flowering period.
In almond trees, long shoots with flowers sprout on the bush or crown structure during the summer. Annual long shoots with buds are unbranched. Over the years they branch out and produce few or no flowers at all.
Cutting types and dates
The linchpin for proper pruning care are the annual long shoots as the most valuable flowering wood. Closely related to this is a stable basic structure that allows young shoots to sprout on the bush and crown every year. Based on this knowledge, the following types of pruning are available to get the most beautiful spring blossoms out of an almond tree:
| Cut style | Goal/Occasion | best date |
|---|---|---|
| Pruning shrubs | stable framework for short-lived flowering wood | during the first 4 to 5 years in May |
| Education cut high stem | Structure of trunk and harmonious crown | in May to the desired trunk height and finished crown |
| Pruning shrub and crown | promote young flowering wood | every year after the flowering period |
| Rejuvenating shrub | revitalize aging shrubs | late winter |
When planning appointments, it is noticeable that May is the best time for training and maintenance cuts. In this phase, your almond tree has not yet started to produce fresh long shoots with new flower buds. The only exception applies to a rejuvenation cut. As the instructions below make clear, rejuvenation involves a radical cut. An almond tree copes better with the procedure during the winter sap dormancy. Furthermore, you are acting in accordance with the law by pruning in winter. The Federal Nature Conservation Act stipulates that you can only radically prune trees between October 1st and February 28th. The grace period extends from March 1st to September 30th, coinciding with the breeding season of our feathered friends. An exception applies to light maintenance cuts that are limited to the current growth.
Train almond trees into bushes
Almond trees show their most beautiful side as well-formed bushes with aframework of three to five ground shootsIn the first four to five years, pruning care focuses on growing selected ground shoots. Instead of simply letting them grow, we recommend agradual buildup with around 10 centimeters of growth per year. This has the advantage that a sap buildup occurs after each cutting stage, which results in vital and dense branching. This is how you achieve the perfect parenting pattern:
- Select three to five of the most promising ground shoots
- Consistently cut off all other ground shoots at the base
- After flowering, cut back last year's growth to about 10 centimeters
- Short side branches along the ground shoots to 3 to 4 buds
It is not possible to predict exactly how long the shrub training will last. The annual growth of almond trees varies between 20 and 70 centimeters, depending on the local conditions. Furthermore, the duration depends on the desired final height. Even during training, long lateral shoots with numerous flower buds thrive. As shown in the illustration below, trim dead branches strictly, while extending the ground shoots a little more generously by 10 centimeters.
The ideal shrub structure consists of three to five long-lasting ground shoots. You build this up gradually over the first few years to the desired height. Thanks to staged training, the scaffold shoots branch evenly with valuable flowering wood.
Raising high-tribes – this is how it works
In the small garden and pots or as a floral reception committee in the front garden, almond trees shine in the shape of decorative tall trunks. For the knowledgeable home gardener, it is a matter of honor to grow an almond tree on their own. How to do it right:
- Select the strongest ground shoot for the future trunk
- Place a support stake in the ground next to the ground shoot to connect them together
- Cut off all remaining ground shoots at the base
- Guide the central shoot up the rod in 10 centimeter increments to the desired trunk height
- Remove bottom shoots and side shoots regularly
A well-formed crown consists of a central shoot as a trunk, a trunk extension and four to five side shoots as leading branches, as shown in the figure below. Branching to the crown begins when you cut off the tip of the central shoot. Please only make this cut when the tip bud is four to five buds above the desired crown base. First wait for the following shoots to select the best leading branches. Cut all remaining branches vertically just before the trunk bark. Noseful ground shoots that sprout vertically in competition with the trunk are cut off at the base.
A beautiful crown consists of a central shoot and four leading branches. You extend this in the first few years. Cut back any flowering wood that sprouts heavily after the flowering period.
Background
Removal of tip bud activates crown branching
The cultivation of almond trees as standard stems benefits from the dominance of the top bud. It is anchored in the growth law of top growth that the strongest growth develops from the top bud of the middle shoot. Significantly less growth occurs on buds positioned deeper along the future standard stem. Conversely, this means that when you remove the top bud, you start the branching to the crown. Immediately after the shoot tip is cut, the sap pressure is distributed to previously subordinate shoot buds, which then sprout vigorously and develop into leading branches.
Preservation cutting – step-by-step instructions
If the training pruning leaves a magnificent almond tree as a shrub or standard tree, pruning care results in annual maintenance. The best time is immediately after the end of the flowering period. The focus is on all dead shoots that have completely exhausted themselves and need to be cut back heavily. The growth on the shrub framework or the crown branches can also be reduced. This is how the maintenance cut works in detail:
- Prune shoots with wilted flowers down to 3 or 4 buds
- Remove dead and inward-facing branches
- Short scaffold shoots or guide branches that are too long to the desired length
For a perfect cut, please place the scissors just above an outward-facing bud or an alternate leaf. Please do not leave long stubs measuring more than 5 millimeters. The remaining wood dries or rots back, which provides a good target for diseases and pests.
Excursus
Aging scaffold shoots can be slimmed down with a derivation cut
Scaffold shoots on almond trees reliably subsidize the growth of side shoots as flower wood for many years. Strongly branched heads on individual leading branches do not mean that you have to remove the supporting branch from the bush or crown. By slimming down an aging tip, a scaffold shoot continues to fulfill its supporting function. Slimming is easy and uncomplicated with a derivation cut. For this purpose, look for a vital side shoot further inside the scaffolding shoot. Where the old leading branch and young shoot fork, cut off the old wood. Ideally, you should move the cutting point a few millimeters behind the fork so that you do not injure the young wood.
Rejuvenate an old almond tree
Three years without maintenance pruning are enough for an almond tree to age and become lazy to bloom. To make matters worse, over-aged long shoots are susceptible to the dreaded Monilia peak drought. These are several reasons to give the flowering bush a radical rejuvenation treatment. This is how the plan works:
- The best time is in late winter to the end of February in frost-free weather
- Examine the trees thoroughly for feathered or fur-bearing winter guests and reschedule the appointment if necessary
- Cut back old, senescent scaffold shoots to 10 to 20 centimeters
- Use young ground shoots as a replacement as a new framework
- Cut side branches along the new scaffold shoots back to three buds
- Fertilize a rejuvenated almond tree with 3 liters of compost and 150 grams of horn shavings
It is an advantage if you divert a worn-out soil shoot instead of radically thinning it out. Before removing a candidate, examine the lower part of the shoot for a promising, outward-facing side shoot. Where old and young wood branch, place the scissors or saw a few millimeters behind the fork.
Do not seal cuts
Does the rejuvenation cut leave one or two major cuts? Then please do not use tree wax or similar wound sealants. Well-founded research and field tests on wound healing on woody plants have proven that an airtight coating on cut wounds does more harm than good. The preparations prevent the plant's own wound wood from fulfilling its duty.
It is sufficient if you smooth cuts with a knife and leave the rest to the almond tree. An exception applies if severe frost is expected after cutting. In this case, lightly coat thewound edges with tree wax to protect the exposed cambium.
Frequently asked questions
Is the almond tree poisonous?
The almond tree (Prunus triloba) delights in our regions with its picturesque spring blossom and does not bear any fruit. Shoots, leaves, roots or bark do not contain any toxic ingredients. However, caution is advised with the almond tree. The bitter almond (Prunus dulcis var. amara) in particular bears highly poisonous fruits, which, however, ripen extremely rarely in our regions.
I heard that the almond tree is susceptible to Monilia peak drought. What can I do to prevent this plant disease?
Monilia pathogens are spread through the air and reach the inside of the plant via the flowers. For this reason, you should cut back almond trees heavily every year after they bloom. This is also the best time for a balanced supply of nutrients, because the tree will subsequently form new shoots that will bear flowers next year.
I didn't cut my almond tree after it bloomed. Now the crown has become very large. Although the tree is only two years old, it has already reached a height of 4 meters. Can I still prune in late summer?
In late summer, an almond tree has already laid out its flower buds for next year. We recommend that you limit pruning to a third of the shoot length. If you cut deeper, next spring the flower festival will be canceled altogether.
I would like to plant an almond tree in a bed that is about 80 centimeters wide. The end of the bed is formed by a 40 centimeter high dry stone wall. Can it happen that the tree's roots damage the wall at some point?
The almond tree Prunus triloba is characterized by weak growth. Since the tree is regularly pruned back after the flowering period, no significantly strong roots can develop. The risk of damage to the drywall is minimal.
The 3 most common cutting mistakes
A tired almond tree with few flowers and many senile shoots is a shadow of itself. So that you don't have to struggle with a exhausted, flowering shrub or standard tree, the following table draws attention to the three most common pruning mistakes that are important for the floral are responsible for the dilemma:
| Cutting errors | malicious image | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| never cut | dense network of old, heavily branched scaffolding and long shoots | After each flowering period, cut back previous long shoots vigorously |
| wrong cutting time | Failure of flowering period | prune immediately after flowering |
| Middle shoot cut too early when raising tall stems | puny tall tribe | Don’t cut the top bud too early |
Tip
In the pot, the almond tree transforms the balcony and terrace into a white and pink spring fairytale. However, the little beauty is not nearly as hardy when grown in pots as it is when planted out in a bed. Stop supplying nutrients by the end of July at the latest so that the shoots mature. Cover the bucket with foil or fleece and place it on wood. If late frosts are imminent, wrap the crown with breathable fleece so that the delicate buds are not damaged.
