Ornamental grasses come in numerous shapes, sizes and colors, which is why they are an important element in garden design. Grasses are not only green, but can also take on shades of brown, bronze, white, reddish or even bluish. Even white, black or yellow variegated varieties provide variety in the garden.
How do I plant ornamental grasses correctly?
To optimally plant ornamental grasses, select the right location and soil for the type of grass, plant in spring and ensure there is sufficient planting distance. A root barrier is recommended for overgrown grasses.
Location and soil
Most grasses prefer a sunny garden location. However, the group of ornamental grasses is very numerous and therefore varied, which is why you will also find a large selection of shade-tolerant species. Typically, the shade-loving ornamental grasses sprout very early and bloom in spring. These species do not mind cooler temperatures and are often winter or even evergreen. For this reason, these species are also known as cold-season grasses. But regardless of whether it is in a sunny or (half) shady location: all grasses need loose, nutrient-poor and humus-rich soil.
The following table tells you which types of grass are particularly suitable for sunny or shady or dry or moist soils:
| Grasses for sunny locations | Grasses for shady locations | Grasses for dry locations | Grasses for fresh to moist locations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Miscanthus | Pennisetum | Mosquito grass (Bouteloua gracilis) | Pile pipe (Arundo donax) |
| Pampas grasses (Cortaderia) | Fox red sedge and other sedges (Carex) | Rainbow fescue (Festuca amethystina) | Stiff golden sedge (Carex elata) |
| Riding grass (Calamagrostis) | Beach sedge (Carex arenaria) | Blue fescue (Festuca cinerea) | Morning star sedge (Carex grayi) |
| Pipe grass (Molinia) | Hainsimse (Luzula) | Atlas fescue (Festuca mairei) | Palm frond sedge (Carex muskingumensis) |
| Pile pipe (Arundo donax) | Forest Schmiele (Deschampsia cespitosa) | Sheep fescue (Festuca ovina) | Giant sedge (Carex pendula) |
| Blue oats (Helictotrichon sempervirens) | Japan grass (Hakonechloa) | Blue oats (Helictotrichon sempervirens) | Cyprus grass (Cyperus longus) |
| Blue fescue (Festuca cinerea) | Golden yellow fluttering grass (Milium Effusum 'Aureum') | Blue Schillergrass (Koeleria glauca) | Narrow-leaved cotton grass (Eriophorum angustifolium) |
| Bottlebrush grass (Hystrix patula) | Stiff sedge (Carex elata) | Pennisetum | Flower rush (Juncus effusus) |
| Tufted hair grass (Stipa capillata) | Red glossy grass (Phalaris arundinacea) | Autumn head grass (Sesleria autumnalis) | Blue rush (Juncus glaucus) |
| Giant feather grass (Stipa gigantea) | Nest Bluegrass (Sesleria nitida) | Giant feather grass (Stipa gigantea) | Giant reed (Miscanthus x giganteus) |
| Eyelash grass (Melica ciliata) | various fescue species (Festuca) | Angel hair (Stipa tenuissima) | Tall moss grass (Molinia arundinacea) |
| Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) | Moor Pipe Grass (Molinia caerulea) | ||
| Silver ear grass (Achnatherum calamagrostis) | Reed (Phragmites communis) | ||
| Cattail (Typha) |
Tip
However, “shady” does not mean absolutely dark, north-facing locations. If grasses are too dark, they grow poorly and do not bloom. So make sure that the place you choose gets sun for a few hours a day or is at least in light shade (i.e. partially shaded to partially sunny).
Planting grasses correctly – This is how it’s done
Few varieties cleverly combined appear noble and timeless
“Don't put too many different types of grass in the bed, it quickly looks untidy and looks like an unmown meadow. Instead, limit yourself to a few varieties.”
Ornamental grasses are usually available in a plant pot. After purchasing, do not leave the plants in them for too long, as these pots are very small and are therefore not suitable for long-term cultivation. However, it is better to plant the grasses as quickly as possible.
The right planting time
It is best to plant all grasses in spring, as the perennials then have enough time to take root and grow. If the weather permits, winter-hardy species can be planted in the bed as early as February, but non-hardy ornamental grasses should only be planted after the Ice Saints. In principle, autumn planting is also possible, but then the hardy species also require light winter protection. In this case, the plants have not had enough time to take root and are therefore sensitive.
Step-by-step instructions for planting
Lift the grass and the adhering soil out of the plant pot and first water the root ball thoroughly. This works particularly well if you simply place the plant in a bucket of (lukewarm!) water. However, make sure that only the roots are in the water. Then proceed as follows:
- Prepare the soil at the selected location.
- Loose the topsoil, dig if necessary and remove weeds etc.
- Improve the soil if necessary, e.g. B. by mixing in sand and/or humus soil.
- Dig the planting holes.
- These should be about twice as big and deep as the root ball.
- Pay attention to the recommended planting distances.
- These depend on the type and variety of ornamental grass.
- Plant the grasses just as deep into the garden soil as they were previously in the pot.
- After planting, press the plants well.
- Water them heavily now, even if it's raining.
- The water closes any cavities in the ground and thus ensures the roots have the necessary contact with the ground.
- Shadow grasses or grasses for moist soils should also be protected from drying out with an approximately five centimeter thick layer of mulch.
Prevent grasses from spreading
Basically, grasses are divided into clump-growing and runner-forming species. When purchasing, pay close attention to which species you have selected belong to, because you should never plant the second variant in the garden without a stable root barrier - otherwise these perennials will overgrow all available areas and are very difficult to remove. Typical representatives of this are bamboo (except Fargesia) and miscanthus. However, there are now some newly bred varieties available that hardly produce any runners and therefore have little tendency to overgrow. When installing the root barrier (which can also be added later), please note the following advice:
- Do not use pond liner, roofing felt or similar, as these are too thin-walled and can easily be punctured.
- Special, thick root barriers (€58.00 on Amazon) made of polyethylene are, however, more suitable.
- You can also plant the grasses in tubs or large pots made of (stainless) metal or plastic.
- Mortar buckets are also suitable.
- Dig the root barriers as deep as possible - 60 to 80 centimeters - as the rhizomes of many grasses can also migrate very deep.
By the way, many grasses spread not only through rhizomes, but also through self-seeding. If you want to avoid this, it is best to use self-sterile hybrid breeding. Limit yourself to a single variety here, as cross-pollination can still produce germinable seeds when planting several types of grass.
Excursus
Make sure the plants are of good quality when purchasing
You buy grasses either in spring or during the summer months. He althy plants have bushy growth and brightly colored stalks without spots or brownish spots (unless these are typical of the variety). However, grasses available in spring are often still in hibernation, which is why you should pay more attention to the root ball: The plant pot is ideally not completely rooted so that the roots still have enough space and are not squeezed.
Optimal care after planting
Once planted and established, ornamental grasses generally don't need much care. In the first few weeks after planting, just pay attention to increased water supply, as this promotes the development of the roots and thus growth. Grasses also do not need fertilization, which is why you should avoid adding compost, horn shavings and other fertilizers - regardless of whether they are organic or not - when planting. A plant cut is also unnecessary. The first cut is always done at the start of the new season, when you remove the dried stalks from the previous year and thus make room for new shoots.
Excursus
Propagate grasses
Most grasses can be propagated very well by division. To do this, cut off as many sections as desired in the spring with a sharp spade and plant them separately. The root ball of the separated pieces should each be about the size of a fist.
Garden design with grasses
The following video with detailed instructions for replanting shows how attractive grasses look in a gravel bed:
Gartengest altung modern im Kiesbeet - Säulen im Garten
Most ornamental grasses belong to the so-called structural plants that do not push themselves into the foreground. However, they make lovely group plantings with other perennials. This is especially true for delicate species such as cottony grass (Melinis) or quaking grass (Briza), which are ideal companions for prominent perennial plants such as dahlias or perennial sunflowers. Some grasses, such as the popular pampas grass or the attractive switchgrass, are particularly effective in a single position due to their magnificent flower decorations and intense coloring.
When planning the perennial bed, pay attention to the flowering times of the desired species so that the planting area looks attractive all year round. Grasses for sunny locations, for example, often only sprout very late in spring and bloom in late summer. Use spring perennials and bulb flowers to ensure that the bed does not appear too bare in spring. So-called shade grasses, on the other hand, sprout quite early and often remain green throughout the winter months. Decorative foliage perennials and ferns go very well here. Spring flowers provide the color accents between March and May.
Frequently asked questions
Which grasses are suitable as privacy screens?
You can use tall growing species such as garden bamboo, miscanthus or pampas grass.
Can I keep grasses in a pot?
Basically, most grasses can be cultivated very well in pots, as long as the planter is large enough and the location and substrate are right. Of course, the rather low and drought-tolerant species are particularly recommended.
Why doesn't the ornamental grass grow and bloom properly?
If the ornamental grass you have planted looks sickly and doesn't seem to want to grow, then it is most likely in the wrong location - often it is simply too dark for the perennial.
Tip
In garden centers and hardware stores, ornamental grasses with a strong blue or bright pink color are often sold, and these plants can also be found in many online retailers. These are not special varieties, just artificially colored grasses. These are often not particularly robust and usually collapse quickly.
